98 xc ac leak; any part replacement recommendations while cleaning engine bay?

Post by **CIK7** » 24 Jul 2020, 02:07

since im planning to take apart most of engine bay, want to get some clues as to what on ac could be leaking. if i use the ac constantly on, it effectively lasts about 4-5 hours and after that the ambient warmth starts setting in. my friend used his freon sniffer, which didnt detect anything. my suspicion is evaporator but unable to do anything now. i already added evaporator to cart and picked out an ac compressor if it comes to the point i need to replace it. really it would make me feel better to know i have a remand unit fresh in. im already replacing alternator (old one from junk car), starter (jammed maybe?), and steering rack (damaged in my accident) with remand units. im not playing around. i dont want to have to go back under the hood for any other major project after this engine upgrade except if i decide to do a manual swap. i dont have the cash for that now and am not up for double project.
are there ANY parts that i should consider replacing, ac or not ac? heater core is done about 2 months ago.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Jul 2020, 04:35

Get a borescope or mirror and have a look at the evaporator through the cabin air filter. You can also remove the power transistor pack and look in that hole

If it’s all greasy grungy that’s the PAG oil coming out from leaks.

Don’t pump a Freon into the environment until you can hood vacuum in the system for 24 hours , it’s bad for us

Post by **CIK7** » 24 Jul 2020, 10:27

abscate wrote: 24 Jul 2020, 04:35 Get a borescope or mirror and have a look at the evaporator through the cabin air filter. You can also remove the power transistor pack and look in that hole

If it’s all greasy grungy that’s the PAG oil coming out from leaks.

Don’t pump a Freon into the environment until you can hood vacuum in the system for 24 hours , it’s bad for us

what is the power transistor hole? i will probably go through cabin filter hole. vacuum the system for 24hr? what all new parts would i need for an ac overhaul job? part numbers for those parts? i already found ac compressor. found replacement orifice tube.

Post by **scot850** » 24 Jul 2020, 13:01

Under the passenger side of the dash, if you remove the glove box liner and the lower dash cover, just to the left of the heater fan there is a rectangular electric unit about 3" x 2" in the air pipe from the blower motor to the evaporator. Removing the resistor pack allows you to get a camera in there. Other option is to remove the blower motor and access from there.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Jul 2020, 14:30

Sorry , I don’t know why I wrote that you cam borescope the evap from the air filter. That’s not right.

Here’s how.

Remove glove box liner and lower passenger kick plate.

Remove power transistor

Post by **volvolugnut** » 24 Jul 2020, 14:36

abscate wrote: 24 Jul 2020, 04:35 Get a borescope or mirror and have a look at the evaporator through the cabin air filter. You can also remove the power transistor pack and look in that hole

If it’s all greasy grungy that’s the PAG oil coming out from leaks.

Don’t pump a Freon into the environment until you can hood vacuum in the system for 24 hours , it’s bad for us

Did you intend to say HOLD vacuum (on the closed AC piping system) for 24 hours?
volvolugnut

Post by **scot850** » 24 Jul 2020, 15:28

For me there are 4 main culprits for A/C failures.

1) Evaporator corrosion and failure
2) Compressor clutch not engaging due to clutch out of spec. (see bread clip or Zip-tie fix).
3) Low pressure valve leaking (the valve near the drier unit on passenger side of engine bay)
4) Holed condenser in front of the radiator.

There are other issues like rusted out drier, broken pipes to the evaporator or from the drier, or even orifice tube blocked.

Good luck!

Neil.

Post by **CIK7** » 24 Jul 2020, 15:55

scot850 wrote: 24 Jul 2020, 15:28 For me there are 4 main culprits for A/C failures.

1) Evaporator corrosion and failure
2) Compressor clutch not engaging due to clutch out of spec. (see bread clip or Zip-tie fix).
3) Low pressure valve leaking (the valve near the drier unit on passenger side of engine bay)
4) Holed condenser in front of the radiator.

There are other issues like rusted out drier, broken pipes to the evaporator or from the drier, or even orifice tube blocked.

Good luck!

Neil.

my plan is to make this a 'new' car. i think ill do all you said except condenser and drier. good starting point. bought orifice tube before noon, evaporator in cart ready to buy, saved for later an ac compressor.

Post by **CIK7** » 24 Jul 2020, 15:57

abscate wrote: 24 Jul 2020, 14:30 Sorry , I don’t know why I wrote that you cam borescope the evap from the air filter. That’s not right.

Here’s how.

Remove glove box liner and lower passenger kick plate.

Remove power transistor

hahahahhahahahahahahahahahahaha! rare passenger foot vent XD just stick it down there wont have to worry about a foot vent no more XD jkjk thank you for the info.

Post by **scot850** » 24 Jul 2020, 17:23

Of the other replacement parts, drier is #1 to buy. Pointless repairing system and not fitting new drier. There is a recommended time once a system has been repaired that you should fit a new drier otherwise it absorbs a lot of moisture. Aftermarket ones are ok for the most part. Only issues I have had with both the evaporator and drier aftermarket was they would not allow the snap rings to fit as they were either slightly too large or out of round on the ends. Both fixed by careful filing.

Neil.