Should I bother

Post by **Sveedy** » 08 Aug 2020, 11:18

I wasn't aware that compression test should be done at wot so I decided to do one again before tearing into the head gasket job today. # 1 cyl cold was 100; added a cap full of oil and it went up to 140. Now I'm beginning to think that I have a ring issue. If that's the case should I even bother doing the head gasket etc now or just wait till I can afford to do the rings etc. The car runs great - no smoking, just high crank case pressure. I've just been leaving the dip stick a little loose for now. I don't mind doing the head work, but if I'm still going to have the higher pressure then maybe it's a bit of wasted labor.

Thoughts ?

Post by **kallekula** » 08 Aug 2020, 11:27

Sveedy wrote: ↑08 Aug 2020, 11:18 I wasn't aware that compression test should be done at wot so I decided to do one again before tearing into the head gasket job today. # 1 cyl cold was 100; added a cap full of oil and it went up to 140. Now I'm beginning to think that I have a ring issue. If that's the case should I even bother doing the head gasket etc now or just wait till I can afford to do the rings etc. The car runs great - no smoking, just high crank case pressure. I've just been leaving the dip stick a little loose for now. I don't mind doing the head work, but if I'm still going to have the higher pressure then maybe it's a bit of wasted labor.

Thoughts ?

If you decide to do the rings you will have to take the head off again. Pistons are pushed upwards and out. Do it all at the same time and be done with it!
EDIT: I would suggest you take the head to a machine shop. They will skim it, regrind the valves, change valve stem seals etc. It costs a few hundred bucks but the head will basically be as good as new.

Post by **misha** » 08 Aug 2020, 13:23

If i remember correctly you said that engine use 1 quart/3k miles,that's 1l/5000km...that's nothing.
If there are no visible signs that engine use oil (blue smoke from exhaust on WOT or when you decelerate with engine)...i would leave it alone.
Upper limit for oil consumption is 1l/1000km.

What oil viscosity you use(this is important)?

You could have bad valve stem seals.
Even bad valve stem seals can get you into 1l/1000km of oil consumption since there are 20 of them.

You will need accurate gauge for compression test and it should be done correctly.

If that is my car i would leave it alone and switch to higher viscosity oil like 10w-40 high mileage.
That would cut oil consumption for 30-50% if you use xx-30 weight oil viscosity.

Mine used 1-1.5l/10.000km(between oil changes) from the factory depending on driving style(from max to min on oil dipstick).

Post by **Sveedy** » 08 Aug 2020, 13:39

That's correct. 1 qt apx 3k miles. I use Mobil 1 High Millage 10-40 but I don't know what was used before. I've only had to do one oil change and that's when I started with the Mobil. I think the previous owner let things go being that she was 90.
I'm really just worried about the crankcase pressure. I already did the PCV system but I might upgrade it in order to get it to breath better.

Post by **misha** » 08 Aug 2020, 14:23

Super granny with T5

Crankcase pressure...you can try with upgrade if that bothers you.

Post by **scot850** » 08 Aug 2020, 15:21

140 pressure reading is still low is it not?

Neil

Post by **Sveedy** » 08 Aug 2020, 15:42

Yep. From what I've read it is. And I figure it's why I have too much crankcase pressure. So I'm hoping that if I can reduce the pressure I can then wait a bit before rebuilding the engine. It has 130k miles so I'd like to get a few more out of it.

Post by **misha** » 08 Aug 2020, 15:54

scot850 wrote: ↑08 Aug 2020, 15:21 140 pressure reading is still low is it not?

Neil

It wouldn't run that good Neil.
My guess is that gauge is not reading properly or didn't seated properly.

Just found this:
https://www.google.com/amp/s/blog.fcpeu ... s_amp=true

Check compression on all cylinders to get complete picture.

Post by **Sveedy** » 08 Aug 2020, 16:08

I did test all cylinders before I realized that I should have wot when doing the test. Having wot increased the numbers a bit.
# 1 was the lowest, then # 2 ( apx 10lbs better ) and the rest the same at apx 150.

I'll check maker of gauge. I should be so lucky...

Post by **Sveedy** » 08 Aug 2020, 16:40

Gauge is generic no name. I checked the o-ring and oiled it a little before test. Pressure builds fast in the first 2 or 3 cranks, then doesn't do much of anything for the remaining 5.

Thanks for all the input - I at least feel that I can wait a bit on rebuilding. For now.....