I have a 2011 Volvo XC90 3.2. Need to replace the spark plugs. Local dealer said I need Volvo part # 31286359 (set of plugs), and wanted to charge me $123. I found them on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-VOLVO-31 ... B00L2MXNUO for $79. Planning to buy from here.
I'm having trouble locating specs for the spark plug gap. The owner's manual does not list it. I've searched online, and cannot find it. Other manufacturers are pregapped at different settings like .028", .044", .040" and so on. According to this site: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0-31286359, these volvo plugs have a .035" gap. I'm so confused. Are these volvo plugs already pregapped to my vehicles specs? I've never installed OEM plugs before. I have no idea what my vehicle requires. Would love some help. thanks!
2011 Volvo XC90 3.2 - Spark Plug Gap
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jpbrooks81
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 27 September 2019
- Year and Model: 2011 XC90
- Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
- MoVolvos
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Installed the OEM Volvo plugs on our 08 C30 T5 last week. Purchased from FCP and the gaps were preset according to the spec in the owners manual. I think it was 0.27, son looked it up and gap/checked them. None required adjusting. The originals were FoMoCo and weren't bad but at 130K. The car runs smoother and has more torque as the revs does not drop as much between shifts (6 speed).jpbrooks81 wrote: ↑17 Aug 2020, 11:24 I have a 2011 Volvo XC90 3.2. Need to replace the spark plugs...
I've never installed OEM plugs before. I have no idea what my vehicle requires. Would love some help. thanks!
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Blessings,
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
- ggleavitt
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If you get the OE "kit", they'll come pre-gapped although it's always good to double-check.
2011 (chassis 568001 onwards, chassis being last 6 of VIN) marks the shift from the B6324S to the B6324S5 in the XC90 and there is a notation in VIDA (product specifications/ 20: Engine, B6324S5, design and function/ spark plugs) about a "new" type of plug (SIP) being used with a gap value of 1.0mm.
For chassis after 568001,OE "kit" is indeed PN 31286359 and costs around $70 from a number of authorized Volvo resellers.
Another 3.2 link here although it's not specific to the S5 - viewtopic.php?f=10&t=88362
082220- add link
2011 (chassis 568001 onwards, chassis being last 6 of VIN) marks the shift from the B6324S to the B6324S5 in the XC90 and there is a notation in VIDA (product specifications/ 20: Engine, B6324S5, design and function/ spark plugs) about a "new" type of plug (SIP) being used with a gap value of 1.0mm.
For chassis after 568001,OE "kit" is indeed PN 31286359 and costs around $70 from a number of authorized Volvo resellers.
Another 3.2 link here although it's not specific to the S5 - viewtopic.php?f=10&t=88362
082220- add link
2006 V8 Ocean Race #740/800 200k, 2008 V8 Sport 183k
- pgill
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We've been discussing spark-plugs for the 3.2 on the Land Rover Board.
The plugs you bought are fine
If you look at the ceramic it should be labeled
FK20HQR10 (This has a gap of 10 = 1.0 mm (.040")
If the part number is
FK20HQR8 (this has a gap of 0.8 mm (.032")
Don't adjust the gap just install the sparkplugs either gap will be fine
Link
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35846.html
The plugs you bought are fine
If you look at the ceramic it should be labeled
FK20HQR10 (This has a gap of 10 = 1.0 mm (.040")
If the part number is
FK20HQR8 (this has a gap of 0.8 mm (.032")
Don't adjust the gap just install the sparkplugs either gap will be fine
Link
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35846.html
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jpbrooks81
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 27 September 2019
- Year and Model: 2011 XC90
- Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Thank you guys for the replies and information. I installed the plugs and the car runs super smooth.
About a month ago, the #1 ignition coil had melted. It was the coil furthest left on the passenger side, so I think it was #1. I had no idea what the problem was at the time. My family and I were headed back home from vacation. It was the start of a 2 day trip until the incident happened. We had the car towed to a mechanic and they discovered the problem. I asked if the spark plugs were ok, and they said yes. They replaced the coil. Car drove fine for a month, then same thing happened after I dropped my daughter off at school. Again, broke down on the road, but managed to get the car to a Firestone. I knew what it was immediately. This time it was the #5 coil (second from right on driver's side). They replaced the coil. Again, I asked if the plugs were ok and they said they were good and looked like they had been replaced recently. This is our main family car, so I decided to go ahead and replace the remaining coils myself. I've only had the car for a year and didn't know how easy it was, otherwise I would have just done all this myself instead of going to the mechanics.
Since I was replacing the coils, I decided to replace the plugs too with the Volvo OEM FK20HQR10 mentioned above. On my gap tool, they did indeed measure at 1.0 mm, but on the other side it said .039". I figured, close enough. Car runs great.
The old plugs however were DEFINITELY NOT GOOD like the 2 mechanics had told me. I'm pretty sure they were the originals and were completely burnt! Vehicle has 125k miles.
Another new area of concern though is the #5 plug, the one that had the most recent coil meltdown. I think it had some oil on it, but couldn't tell if it was actually oil. I compared the smell to the oil from the dipstick and they are completely different. The oil from the plug smelled like the burnt plastic from the melted coil. The consistency was very oily. The tube that the plug sits in was pretty clean. The oily substance was around the base where the plug screws in, and it was on the threads of the plug. I cleaned out the tube that the plug sits in, so I will have to check in another day or 2 to see if it has new goo in it.
About a month ago, the #1 ignition coil had melted. It was the coil furthest left on the passenger side, so I think it was #1. I had no idea what the problem was at the time. My family and I were headed back home from vacation. It was the start of a 2 day trip until the incident happened. We had the car towed to a mechanic and they discovered the problem. I asked if the spark plugs were ok, and they said yes. They replaced the coil. Car drove fine for a month, then same thing happened after I dropped my daughter off at school. Again, broke down on the road, but managed to get the car to a Firestone. I knew what it was immediately. This time it was the #5 coil (second from right on driver's side). They replaced the coil. Again, I asked if the plugs were ok and they said they were good and looked like they had been replaced recently. This is our main family car, so I decided to go ahead and replace the remaining coils myself. I've only had the car for a year and didn't know how easy it was, otherwise I would have just done all this myself instead of going to the mechanics.
Since I was replacing the coils, I decided to replace the plugs too with the Volvo OEM FK20HQR10 mentioned above. On my gap tool, they did indeed measure at 1.0 mm, but on the other side it said .039". I figured, close enough. Car runs great.
The old plugs however were DEFINITELY NOT GOOD like the 2 mechanics had told me. I'm pretty sure they were the originals and were completely burnt! Vehicle has 125k miles.
Another new area of concern though is the #5 plug, the one that had the most recent coil meltdown. I think it had some oil on it, but couldn't tell if it was actually oil. I compared the smell to the oil from the dipstick and they are completely different. The oil from the plug smelled like the burnt plastic from the melted coil. The consistency was very oily. The tube that the plug sits in was pretty clean. The oily substance was around the base where the plug screws in, and it was on the threads of the plug. I cleaned out the tube that the plug sits in, so I will have to check in another day or 2 to see if it has new goo in it.
- pgill
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JP,
You are in the window where the Thermostat fails.
A failed Thermostat has been known to cause coil failures on the 3.2.
This link convinced me to change my Thermostat
https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthre ... -2009-XC70
If you want to know how the thermostat fails then look at this link
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=86205
And here is some information about changing the Thermostat
Note: you may not have to remove the manifold on the XC90 but I did remove it on my S80 and LR2
Don't forget to replace the small hose and O-ring to the left of the thermostat at the same time (This is a known failure point)
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html
Good Luck
Paul
You are in the window where the Thermostat fails.
A failed Thermostat has been known to cause coil failures on the 3.2.
This link convinced me to change my Thermostat
https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthre ... -2009-XC70
If you want to know how the thermostat fails then look at this link
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=86205
And here is some information about changing the Thermostat
Note: you may not have to remove the manifold on the XC90 but I did remove it on my S80 and LR2
Don't forget to replace the small hose and O-ring to the left of the thermostat at the same time (This is a known failure point)
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32245.html
Good Luck
Paul
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