850 T5 Blue Smoke after a couple hours of sitting

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 28 Aug 2020, 00:25

fantajuice wrote: 27 Aug 2020, 21:01 Which fuse is related to this?

Fuse #14 30A ABS and Traction control.

fantajuice · Post by **fantajuice** » 22 Sep 2020, 22:57

That fixed the AbS and tracs.
However after changing changing the coolant yesterday (old was brown and muddy), I have stumbled upon an issue I really don't like - pressure in the coolant system.
I really really hope it isn't the head gasket.

The symptoms are as follows: coolant level in minimum, cap off, start the engine, engine gets warm and slowly the coolant level starts to rise. In about 20 minutes it rises to maximum. After that it starts to over flow until you shut off the engine, after which it burbles a bit and all the coolant lowers back down, to minimum.

With the cap closed the level stays the same as before starting the engine, but eventually starts leaking from the main hose underneath the expansion tank, due to the pressure I presume. If I take off the cap before it starts doing that, it immediately starts over flowing.

Temperature does not rise over normal according to the temperature gauge. The coolant doesn't dissapear.
Car blows warm air, lower and upper radiator hoses get hot.

Please tell me I have an air bubble somewhere where I couldn't figure it out and that I don't have to do the head gasket.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 22 Sep 2020, 23:24

fantajuice wrote: 22 Sep 2020, 22:57 The symptoms are as follows: coolant level in minimum, cap off, start the engine, engine gets warm and slowly the coolant level starts to rise. In about 20 minutes it rises to maximum. After that it starts to over flow until you shut off the engine, after which it burbles a bit and all the coolant lowers back down, to minimum.

Normal: Coolant systems are pressurized in order to raise the boiling point of the water. Lower the pressure and the boiling point lowers. Look up Ideal Gas law.

If a hose is leaking the hose is defective. The hose is most likely the original that would make it 25 years old.

fantajuice · Post by **fantajuice** » 22 Sep 2020, 23:44

RickHaleParker wrote: 22 Sep 2020, 23:24
fantajuice wrote: 22 Sep 2020, 22:57 The symptoms are as follows: coolant level in minimum, cap off, start the engine, engine gets warm and slowly the coolant level starts to rise. In about 20 minutes it rises to maximum. After that it starts to over flow until you shut off the engine, after which it burbles a bit and all the coolant lowers back down, to minimum.
Normal: Coolant systems are pressurized in order to raise the boiling point of the water. Lower the pressure and the boiling point lowers. Look up Ideal Gas law.

If a hose is leaking the hose is defective. The hose is most likely the original that would make it 25 years old.

It's more so that it starts pushing out the liquid from underneath the hose, even with the clamp tightened.
None of this happened before.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 22 Sep 2020, 23:49

fantajuice wrote: 22 Sep 2020, 23:44 It's more so that it starts pushing out the liquid from underneath the hose, even with the clamp tightened.
None of this happened before.

Everything has a start time.

The hose may of expanded. It is now bigger around that could explain why it does not hold pressure like it did before.

If you think it a head gasket. Go to a auto parts store and get a Combustion Leak Tester. It is a chemicial test that will sniff out combustion gases in the coolant.

fantajuice · Post by **fantajuice** » 24 Sep 2020, 09:25

I'll do the test today, however, again, when driving yesterday, downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, it didn't quite want to go in and suddenly I heard a crack.
Now bottom row of gears is basically gone, I can get it into fourth with some ease, but second is wayyy wayyy far down and reverse is near impossible to find.
First, third and fifth are fine.
Gear shifter linkage? What should I check out?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 24 Sep 2020, 19:05

fantajuice wrote: 24 Sep 2020, 09:25 First, third and fifth are fine.
Gear shifter linkage? What should I check out?

Odds are OK. Evens are not. The linkage is two cables. My first guess is you cracked the plastic shifter base rendering one of the cables inoperable. Have somebody work the shifter as you observe the linkage cables at the transmission.

fantajuice · Post by **fantajuice** » 26 Sep 2020, 02:41

Good news on the head gasket test, it isn't buggered.
Bad news on everything else not related to the car - I'll have to drive around with a screwed shifter for a couple weeks because I got thrown out of the garage I was renting because apparently I was there so much, that someone called the cops on me for having an "illegal workshop".

I also want to find the turbo leak I've got going, but I've no idea where to start. The car has a tune (but I have no clue what's been done, ECU has tuning written on it, previous owner had no clue either), and when I bought it, according to the boost gauge, went up to 1.5 bar.
Now it does 1 bar and in third gear foot flat to the floor, the boost starts to fluctuate between 1-1.2. Still faster than a 4.2 A8 from a rolling start with half the fuel economy

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 27 Sep 2020, 02:17

fantajuice wrote: 26 Sep 2020, 02:41 I also want to find the turbo leak I've got going, but I've no idea where to start.

Should of told the cops "I am not much of a business person .. I only have one customer and it is me" .

Smoke the leak out. Google "DIY Smoke machine" There are all kinds of way to make a smoke machine.

Post by **abscate** » 27 Sep 2020, 05:42

If they don’t crack down On rogue garages you get this guy in your neighborhood, everyone complains until their car breaks, then suddenly you are loved.