FDPP #2

[gnalan]

Ended up eventually finding a Volvo contactless ETM at the junkyard. That's the best option... cheap and pretty much fail-proof.

Volvo makes/made a contactless one, or was it a rebuilt ETM? What years did they make them, and which years would be compatible with my 2001? Is there a certain part number, or way to tell what to look for? I'd be more than happy to have a good working used ETM that's contactless.

I can't solder very well, and I'm not sure my circuit board would last even if I could solder on a new contactless sensor.

A used contactless Volvo ETM in good condition from a junk yard would be a lot cheaper than buying a new or used XeMODeX ETM.

[bmdubya1198]

Yes, a junkyard one is probably the best option. Just look out for either a yellow label that’s as new as possible or the late white label.
The Volvo contactless ETMs started around 2013, and the label looks different from the older ones. They no longer have the Magneti Marelli branding.

I’ll see if I can find a pic of the new label.

[cn90]

Just curious if an identical ETM is found at junk yard, is it "Plug-and-play" or one has to program it?

[gnalan]

The Volvo contactless ETMs started around 2013, and the label looks different from the older ones. They no longer have the Magneti Marelli branding.

Does that mean from a 2013+ MY car, or the manufactured date on the label? Would a newer MY ETM work on my 2001?

Is it possible to retrofit a cable TB and pedal to my car, and do away with the drive by wire issues?

[bmdubya1198]

Just curious if an identical ETM is found at junk yard, is it "Plug-and-play" or one has to program it?

They are plug and play. They technically should be mated to the car with VIDA, but it's not necessary. It's a software download like anything else that requires a subscription and costs probably $20-$30 to do. It's cheap, but most dealers will only program it if they sold it to you. Therefore, not worth it.
Any time I've replaced one, I've never done a software download.

Does that mean from a 2013+ MY car, or the manufactured date on the label? Would a newer MY ETM work on my 2001?

Is it possible to retrofit a cable TB and pedal to my car, and do away with the drive by wire issues?

2013+ production date on the label. Volvo only used this style ETM from 1999-2002. The 2002 MY uses a different version though, so this particular version is '99-'01.
No way to change to a cable throttle though.

This is what that label looks like. I'll add this to the junkyard "do not leave" parts thread.

[gnalan]

Here's some more screenshots, that may or may not be helpful. I had to press the gas pedal to the floor as hard as I could to get the numbers shown in the screenshot above.

[bmdubya1198]

Just looking at those, I think your gas pedal may be a problem. Only 74% floored? That's not right.

That would explain the seemingly good ETM test, as well as the log you posted before with the graph all over the place. I think it's a pretty safe bet to replace the gas pedal.

[gnalan]

Is there a contactless rebuild kit available for the gas pedal?

I'll try to check the numbers again when the car is running, and see if the numbers jump around on their own while watching the throttle angle value to see if there's any kind of similarities.

I've been emailing back and forth with Joshua Dunning (a really nice guy), from XeMODeX, who is trying to help point me in the right direction to fix the car also. He thinks it's either an air leak at the intake, or an electrical issue, but that was before I did the pedal test, out of curiosity, and sent it to him to look at, plus some other questions he asked me that I answered. I should hear back from him tomorrow.

Everyone has been helpful, and I/we truly appreciate it. I know trying to diagnose any kind of problem can be hard, especially when you don't have the car in your own hands to do the testing with.

[bmdubya1198]

I'm not sure, somebody mentioned is a few posts up though so I guess it might be an option. I'm not familiar with the P2 accelerator pedal assembly, but I know the P80 pedal is a contact design, just like the original ETM. They don't fail horribly often on P80s though.

[gnalan]

Is there a way to carefully remove the ECU, without using the special tool, so I can check for any wiring issues?

(I'm still half asleep, so if I repeat myself, or start talking gibberish, I'm more than likely falling back to sleep.)