bleeding brakes with wheels on

moncureww · Post by **moncureww** » 27 Oct 2020, 17:57

Is it possible to bleed the brakes with the wheels on? Without jacks or a jackstand? Has anyone done it here? I was just wondering if it's possble without any crazy gymnastics. I live in the city, and it's only really easy to use my ramps and my Motive brake bleeder.

Thanks in advance.

2006 Volvo S60 2.5T AWD, Willow Green
216,000 miles

Post by **abscate** » 28 Oct 2020, 01:14

Depending on wheel choice you may not be able to get a hose onto the caliper bleeder with the wheel on. In an emergency one can spew the nasty glycol ether into a Mother Nature but to do so for convenience would be grounds for removal from the League of extraordinary Gentlemen/Ladies

I have explored this and failed for the above reason on both the T5 and S70

Post by **oragex** » 28 Oct 2020, 07:10

Not without lifting that wheel - make sure you immobilize the car properly if using ramps but better yet, use the spare jack to lift the wheel, then place a $20 jack stand (get one from harbour freight, don't buy cheap chinese ones from amazon). A jack stand is basically the very first item to buy when starting to work on our cars www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gtY-IZQgfw
You may find near your place some industrial park with maybe large empty areas, may try asking the security guy if you can work there for 30 min. in week-end
Even with the wheel lifted, it's very difficult to bleed because the bleeder is very close to the wheel surface: I use a small hose over the bleeder to make sure no air is going back inside the caliper, and the hose can barely pass by the wheel surface, and it pops off the bleeder easily. But with the pressure bleeder you should be fine without the hose, as long as you tighten back the bleeder before it looses all pressure. However welcome to a messy wheel and caliper from fluid (when done spray with a garden hose).
The rear bleeders may also be stuck so really not the way to try releasing them with the wheel on, good chance to snap the bleeder. If you feel it's stuck, better not force. Snapping a bleeder is a full caliper job
You will also need to use a wrench to break loose the bleeder, instead of a socket. The wrench has 12 contact points vs socket has 6. 12 contact points are much higher risk of rounding a stuck bleeder
These cars take Do4 synthetic for european cars fluid (it must be written on the bottle for european cars)

Post by **volvolugnut** » 28 Oct 2020, 08:16

You can use a 6 point wrench as well on the bleeder fitting. Sockets also come in 12 point type, so select the 6 point for this work. Tube fitting wrenches appear to have 6 points with a slot to allow getting the opening over the tube, BUT these tube wrenches are not as rigid as the close end wrench or sockets and may round the hex corners. I have screwed up fittings and bolts in all of these ways. A nasty fix if you round the corners of the fitting is the vise grip locking pliers, but it will forever mess up the fitting hex flats.
volvolugnut

Post by **cn90** » 28 Oct 2020, 12:01

Yes,

Have done it many times bc I don't enjoy jacking the car up and remove the wheels.

- I use my modified ATE cap + air compressor at 10 psi.

- Front tires on wood ramps bc the ground clearance is low in the front. The Rear: leave it at ground level.

I posted info and photos in this forum.

Tip: use 6-point box wrench. You can use 12-point box wrench but 6-point is better...