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850 subframe drop and suspension rebuild

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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hipcheck
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850 subframe drop and suspension rebuild

Post by hipcheck »

I am working on bringing my 1997 Volvo 850 T-5 back to life after a medium front end collision. I should finish the timing chain today or tomorrow. Then it is just drop in the radiator/intercooler/fan and start putting the body panel and headlights back on the car.

My next plan is a subframe drop and rebuild the entire suspension/steering. The axles and CV boots are in good shape. I have some IPD sways, sway bar end links, rebuilt steering rack, tie rods (inner/outer), complete strut assembly (with lowering springs), subframe bushings (poly inserts too).

I am ordering all new motor mounts and lower control arms today on the Black Friday sale.

I would love to pull the whole subframe out, clean it, and paint it before putting all these items on the car.

What else can I do while I have the subframe out?
I guess with the engine being held from above I could do the oil pan gasket?
Basically seeing if I need to add anything else to my cart?

Does anyone know the sizes/types of bolts used on the steering rack? I would love to not use old hardware here.

Thank you,

Steve

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Cookeh
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Post by Cookeh »

Drop the subframe with the engine and you could do a whole lot...if its a manual you could refresh the entire clutch system. If you want to keep engine in and held from above, then I'd be looking at steering refresh. Rebuild kit for the steering rack, replace/refurb where required on the inner/outer tie rods- which you seem to already have covered..

With the suframe out its also the perfect time to do subframe bushes, which will have a noticeable impact on its roadhandling. If you want a bit more in the way of steering feedback then you can either polybush them or fit the solid mounts found in the P80 C70s. You could even source the entire subframe from a C70, with the subframe bushes, subframe braces, and horseshoe brace and bolt that straight in. That would be transformational on the front end.

scot850  
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Post by scot850 »

I would support the engine from above with and engine support bar and drop the sub-frame out. Check carefully that the sub-frame and chassis rails are all still straight. With a front end hit they can get bent.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

hipcheck
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Post by hipcheck »

Cookeh wrote: 30 Nov 2020, 10:28 Drop the subframe with the engine and you could do a whole lot...if its a manual you could refresh the entire clutch system. If you want to keep engine in and held from above, then I'd be looking at steering refresh. Rebuild kit for the steering rack, replace/refurb where required on the inner/outer tie rods- which you seem to already have covered..

With the suframe out its also the perfect time to do subframe bushes, which will have a noticeable impact on its roadhandling. If you want a bit more in the way of steering feedback then you can either polybush them or fit the solid mounts found in the P80 C70s. You could even source the entire subframe from a C70, with the subframe bushes, subframe braces, and horseshoe brace and bolt that straight in. That would be transformational on the front end.
Thanks for the tip!

I see a 2004 C70 Convertiable has been added to the U-Pull-it yard in a town a few hours away. I will be in that area later this month and I will look into getting the subframe braces. I do not think I will grab the whole subframe (switching to 4 bolt control arms and possibly slight mismatches in steering rack/engine mounts/etc)

Steve

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Cookeh
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Post by Cookeh »

If you do go down that route you'll need to keep the subframe bolts from the breaker C70. They're slightly longer, and that length is needed to clear the additional thickness from the brace. The only reason I suggested simply swapping the subframe is because those solid mounts are a real pain to remove. As you say though, with a 2004 there is one different motor mount and the four bolt control arms can be a pain to deal with at times.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I pulled up th C70 and got 977509 for the bolt hardware for the big ones

Looks the same?
Attachments
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Cookeh
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Post by Cookeh »

I was under the impression #53 and #50 are the same, but #48 differs. Being wrong here is definitely a good thing, though, as it's one less thing to consider.

hipcheck
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Post by hipcheck »

I have all parts based on the 850 subframe, not time to switch it up now.

But I can knock off this 2 cross braces while I’m there for a minor upgrade.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Cookeh wrote: 01 Dec 2020, 07:08 I was under the impression #53 and #50 are the same, but #48 differs. Being wrong here is definitely a good thing, though, as it's one less thing to consider.
I think you are correct on this. 48 shows a bunch of different applications.
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

That c70 stiffener will give 10 extra HP while waiting at the stop,light
Empty Nester
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