sheared subframe bolt '96 850

jlp920 · Post by **jlp920** » 15 Dec 2020, 17:17

Hey folks.
I'm doing the steering rack, among other things, on my '96 850, 20v non-turbo.
The driver's side subframe bolt (rear position, roughly under the driver's floorboards) sheared on me, while the other rear one came out
just fine. There is a red protuberance into which this bolt was threaded. I'm prepared to dig into the floor of the drivers side to try to access the other end of this thing, not sure what I'm about to find. It was strange because it started coming out fine then gradually bound up until finally I sheared it with a breaker bar. At least I can get the rack out now

So....anyone come up against this kind of thing?
-Jesse

Post by **Chuck W** » 15 Dec 2020, 18:54

That is a locating nub for the subframe. There are two on that side (1 front and rear). Helps keep the SF square under the frame.

That's gonna be a bear to get removed, I think.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Dec 2020, 19:19

Get a nice new sharp bit , center punch and drill out. You might need 2 or even three drill bits to release that depending on how well you control drill feed.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 15 Dec 2020, 19:46

When I get a bolt turning and it gets tight, that is the signal to stop and rethink what I am doing. Boldly going forth with more breaker bar torque usually will lead to broken bolts. Soak it with oil, reverse direction, add some heat, but don't just keep applying more torque. That is how I have broken many bolts.
But you knew all that.
volvolugnut

Post by **kallekula** » 15 Dec 2020, 20:09

Shorten the bolt a bit with a benchgrinder or similar. Looks like there are plenty of thread on there. Maybe not the best solution from a security pov though...

jlp920 · Post by **jlp920** » 15 Dec 2020, 20:50

abscate wrote: ↑15 Dec 2020, 19:19 Get a nice new sharp bit , center punch and drill out. You might need 2 or even three drill bits to release that depending on how well you control drill feed.

I like that option. Right up through the nub?
Any point in attempting to access the other side?

jlp920 · Post by **jlp920** » 15 Dec 2020, 20:54

Chuck W wrote: ↑15 Dec 2020, 18:54 That is a locating nub for the subframe. There are two on that side (1 front and rear). Helps keep the SF square under the frame.

That's gonna be a bear to get removed, I think.

Thanks for identifying it. I ran into a bit more than I bargained for.
Any further help on my approach is welcomed. The manuals don't have a lot to say at this point.

Post by **j-dawg** » 15 Dec 2020, 23:01

Also, buy and use a left-handed bit. The bit may grab and extract the screw.
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-t ... hand-drill

jlp920 · Post by **jlp920** » 16 Dec 2020, 04:09

Yeah, I am well aware that I screwed the pooch here. Believe me, I know. The question is, do I now have a pile of scrap or can I work through this?
Pretty obvious I will need to drop the entire subframe in order to get at that bolt with a drill bit. Thanks again for your feedback, it's a very disappointing situation for me. That said, if there's a path forward I need to take it.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Dec 2020, 04:28

You will get through it, it’s been done amd conquered before. I think Kally felt with one of these on her 1998 and she got it done in her driveway in winter. I’m no Spring Chicken, and the Creator built her before me.

Heat it for a couple of cycles to get the metals talking to each other, spread the Holy Water of PB Blaster liberally.

I don’t think you can get to the top of these without major surgery.

Gauntlet thrown.

Dropping subframe isn’t too bad. Are you near me in NE? I can loan the engine carrier and save you fabbing one. I do need it back to a steering rack but time isn’t critical right now