When is it not worth fixing?

[scot850]

The argument I always use is how much does depreciation come into the equation on vehicle running cost? Your $1200 car has close to zero depreciation. What is the value depreciation on a new $30k car? Often they loose 50% in 3 years so lets say $4-5000/year? Even a poor P80 would not cost you that (unless it is my 'R'). I think the most I put into one was about $3000. My buddy still has that car 3 years later, added 40,000km to it and loves it. Depreciation? $0. Up here a good V70 P80 sells for that. He has spent a little on the car (maybe $400) but not anywhere close to $12-15k.

A lot of this also comes down to what you want and how much labor you can put in. A rear main seal is a complex job and about 10 hours in labor at a dealer for the $20 part. Once done it will probably run another 200,000km and if done at a dealer should have a lifetime warranty.

Every ones situation and position is different. All you can do is make the decision for you and hope to pass the car or remains onto someone else who may be able to repair the car.

Neil.

[abscate]

For the ultimate win on depreciation ...

Evita, bought for part out at $500, worth $300 in scrap. Got luck and freed up a seized engine with used engine oil from the Beetle.

$100 a year for two years depreciation?



From road to top of driveway...

Shaggkira, Elizabeth, Catherine P2, Eugenia E83, Evita, and Catigale theM26

Caitlin is my fragile little flower in front

[wizechatmgr]

I think at this point it depends on if you wish to use used parts and if you're doing your own work. If you're paying someone to do it, you'd be a fool to keep it in most cases.

If you're doing your own work, I'd say if the car has the features you want and has been reliable, it becomes a judgement call. Flip a coin?

[FireFox31]

My 850 brought me to become someone else, someone different, a mechanic, newbie one, for sure, but a mechanic.

Very well said. This is also happened to me thanks to me 2000 V70, Matthews Volvo Site, and the UK Haynes manual. I went from being dependent on the dealership to tackling almost any job myself (timing belt coming up soon!).

I am choosing to revive this new-to-me $500 2000 V70 because I trust the platform. I trust that with $3000 in parts, it can be beautiful, reliable, and last 100k miles. And if I need to sell this car, I will ask a good price because I know it will be fully restored and reliable.

I owned a 2000 V70 for 18 years and it was very reliable. It didn't have "dumb" problems like my 2002 Mercedes E320. It had predictable, preventable wear and tear issues. Yeah, the engine blew because a coolant hose separated on the highway, but I'm still not sure what/who really caused that.

I just confirmed that its rear calipers are working perfectly and its pulsation while braking is from deposits on the inside of a rear rotor. Simple, inexpensive fix. A few more fixes and I'll get it to pass inspection. Then timing belt, spark plugs, and PCV cleaning. Inexpensive, fun, and will ultimately give me a refreshed, reliable car.

[manovlov]

The timing belt job is not really difficult. When the pulleys are well blocked, the alignment marks are respected, it becomes just a question of taking time with right tools. Don't forget to draw marks on the old timing belt to be sure to be ok. Screw bolts has they need to with a dynamometric wrench. When finished, turn the engine 2 or 3 time "by hand" to see if aligment is ok.

Enjoy !

For me, a new success made possible by MVS !

Manov

[FireFox31]

Parts availability is becoming a challenge to keeping these 20 year old cars. I recently couldn't find a turn signal and a brake line that I need. I've always assumed that Volvo would keep P80 parts available forever since the cars were so popular. I'm doubting that now, wondering if I'm making the right call in restoring this new-to-me one.

[abscate]

I think your 2000 NA has intake CVVT? If you are doing cam seals on a CVVT hub you need the cam lock tool to get the hub off, otherwise you don’t need that tool