I have a 2012 S60. The battery is about 3 months old.
A few days ago, I got into the car and it was completely dead. I jump started it and went about my business. I drove it off and on for the next three or four days with no problems.
I was running a few errands and on my last stop, I parked, turned the car off and everything went dark. The car was a brick.
I got a jump started and drove home. As of right now, the car is running.
To me, this says bad alternator, but since I haven't had an alternator go bad on a car for at least 20 years, I wanted to get some other opinions before I try to fix the problem. Thanks.
Battery depletion issues
- RickHaleParker
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1. With the engine running, measure the voltage across the battery.
2. 1/2 + hour after you shut the car off, measure the voltage across the battery.
3. Clean and tighten the battery terminals. Oxidation on the terminals will cause a large voltage drop that causes a no crank condition.
4. Check/clean connectors on B+ cable, one end is on the Alternator the other end is on the jump block. Jump block is where the long cable from the battery ends in the engine compartment.
2. 1/2 + hour after you shut the car off, measure the voltage across the battery.
3. Clean and tighten the battery terminals. Oxidation on the terminals will cause a large voltage drop that causes a no crank condition.
4. Check/clean connectors on B+ cable, one end is on the Alternator the other end is on the jump block. Jump block is where the long cable from the battery ends in the engine compartment.
Active
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2017 Ford PIU. 3.5l, Twin Turbo, 365 Hp.
............................
Past
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000. ( Killed by a plastic radiator. )
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion ( I moved, the project did not )
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0. ( Transmission dead after sitting for a winter )
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2017 Ford PIU. 3.5l, Twin Turbo, 365 Hp.
............................
Past
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000. ( Killed by a plastic radiator. )
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion ( I moved, the project did not )
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0. ( Transmission dead after sitting for a winter )
- abscate
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8 years and ~120k miles an alternator failure is unlikely
Follow RHP advice above and check all those electricals. With Covid, if your driving habits have changed like mine, many of us are running in charge deficit from short trips, and might need a charge once a month or so.
Follow RHP advice above and check all those electricals. With Covid, if your driving habits have changed like mine, many of us are running in charge deficit from short trips, and might need a charge once a month or so.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
Thanks, I'll give those a try. I already noticed that one of the battery leads wasn't tightened down, so maybe that was the problem.RickHaleParker wrote: 04 Feb 2021, 02:37 1. With the engine running, measure the voltage across the battery.
2. 1/2 + hour after you shut the car off, measure the voltage across the battery.
3. Clean and tighten the battery terminals. Oxidation on the terminals will cause a large voltage drop that causes a no crank condition.
4. Check/clean connectors on B+ cable, one end is on the Alternator the other end is on the jump block. Jump block is where the long cable from the battery ends in the engine compartment.
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