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I dont wanna damage my engine because of a wastegate!

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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wbrenegade420
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I dont wanna damage my engine because of a wastegate!

Post by wbrenegade420 »

Skippin all the unneeded details, my wastegate adjustment is not where it's supposed to be at all. And I think it's making my car run poorly. How do I go about adjusting it properly? (vehicle is 2006 s60r)

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- Pete -
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Post by - Pete - »

What has convinced you that your wastegate is set inappropriately?
What sort of “car runs poorly” symptoms are you having?
What recent work has been done?

If you have a boost gauge you can unplug your TCV and get a pretty good idea of what your wastegate setting is.
2001 V70XC 200k
2004 V70 AWD 174k
2004 V70R M66 147k
2004 XC70 361k
1995 F250 7.3PSD 262k
2014 Ram 3500 DRW 116k

wbrenegade420
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Post by wbrenegade420 »

- Pete - wrote: 07 Apr 2021, 08:00 What has convinced you that your wastegate is set inappropriately?
What sort of “car runs poorly” symptoms are you having?
What recent work has been done?

If you have a boost gauge you can unplug your TCV and get a pretty good idea of what your wastegate setting is.
It was completely removed from the turbo prior to learning that you should never touch these wastegates.

Symptoms are boost related: showing boost while only on light throttle, failure to build full boost. And the symptoms change the more I try and adjust it (adjust it = loosening the 10mm jam nut and turning the thumb screw thingy)

The timing components, and turbo oil seals, but this wastegate situation was a problem prior to that

Also, I made a little make-shift hand pump gauge with a big pump, my boost gauge, and other various components like the ipd wastegate adjustment tool and noticed, when adjusting it via the thumb screw, the pressure it takes to crack open the WG door stays about the same (around 6 psi) which could also just be because of a quality of my homemade tool not giving me accurate readings

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SuperHerman
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Post by SuperHerman »

Different car, but same maker (Volvo). On my old 2004 XC90 2.9T I had two related issues. 1) The waste gate seat was cracked not permitting a proper seal; and 2) more important the waste gate flapper was binding and needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out..

With that in mind, how did your flapper move when done by hand? It should transit its path without binding. If it has binding that area will require additional force to overcome the friction which messes up your readings and of course proper function. Point is, make sure you eliminate the obvious first.

Have you tried taking a vacuum pump (Mini-Vac) to make sure the diaphragm is not compromised in any way? If it is torn or leaking you will have problems. You should be able to use the Mini-Vac and watch the entire process.

What were the original symptoms that lead you to the repairs. Unfortunately you have opened up a few moving parts, but did you have a waste gate issue prior to the repairs?

Can you examine the threading and figure out where the original setting was? Close is good enough to start to narrow and eliminate other issues? Did you take any pictures of before and after where you can possible count threads and get close? (I have done this in other situations when I have messed up).

wbrenegade420
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Post by wbrenegade420 »

SuperHerman wrote: 07 Apr 2021, 14:10 Different car, but same maker (Volvo). On my old 2004 XC90 2.9T I had two related issues. 1) The waste gate seat was cracked not permitting a proper seal; and 2) more important the waste gate flapper was binding and needed to be cleaned up and smoothed out..

With that in mind, how did your flapper move when done by hand? It should transit its path without binding. If it has binding that area will require additional force to overcome the friction which messes up your readings and of course proper function. Point is, make sure you eliminate the obvious first.

Have you tried taking a vacuum pump (Mini-Vac) to make sure the diaphragm is not compromised in any way? If it is torn or leaking you will have problems. You should be able to use the Mini-Vac and watch the entire process.

What were the original symptoms that lead you to the repairs. Unfortunately you have opened up a few moving parts, but did you have a waste gate issue prior to the repairs?

Can you examine the threading and figure out where the original setting was? Close is good enough to start to narrow and eliminate other issues? Did you take any pictures of before and after where you can possible count threads and get close? (I have done this in other situations when I have messed up).



The flapper seemed to move just fine
I have not tried the puling vac on the WG. Only applied pressure when trying to set it.
And i tried looking close but there is no indication as to where it previously was (the jam nut that is)

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SuperHerman
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Post by SuperHerman »

There is at least one extensive write up on the forum on setting the WG properly.

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