I'm looking to purchase a 2006 XC90 V8

[shiloh51933]

Like I stated in my subject title, I'm looking at a 2006 XC90 V8 w/130k on the odometer. I thought read something about a TSB on the balance shaft bearing , something about water getting stuck in there. Anyway I've heard mostly good stuff about the V8 models in comparison to the anaemic 3.2liter models. Any suggestions while shopping for a V8 model would be appreciated.

[MoVolvos]

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I don't own one but thought that would be my last till the 08 C30 and 03 S80 T6 came along.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/Volvo/XC90/

2006 - Prior had transmission issues also
2007 if the work to replace already done under warranty
2008 better year if weep hole was updated at the factory
2009 good year
2010 even better year

All others can be priced high in terms of market value.

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https://blog.fcpeuro.com/the-dark-side- ... cellent-v8

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MVS Thread

viewtopic.php?t=87194

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[ggleavitt]

You'll do the work yourself?

One of the folks who's done a bunch of work on the V8 can chime in and correct anything that I offer for information, I'm going only off my own experience(s).

I currently own two V8s, a 2006 Ocean Race and a 2008 Sport. In my opinion, by the time you get much past 110k miles the engine starts seeping. The XC90 V8 is 10 pounds of engine in a 9 pound bay and things get pretty hot. Over time and heat cycles pretty much anything that’s rubber hardens up. Valve cover gaskets and VVT solenoid seals, PCV breather hoses, even the oil dipstick and fill cap o-rings get stiff and lose their ability to seal properly. This leads to seeps that eventually become leaks. Somewhere after 120k or so the PS pump may start seeping which will also turn into a leak if left for too long. Then you have the serp belt with rollers, they start to get worn out by 130k and if you wait until the Volvo maintenance interval of 150k to change the belt and rollers you run the risk of spinning a timing cover stud. Alternator may or may not last much past 150k and you might have a starter begin to wear out around that same time.

My experience on the ’08 (purchased in 2015 with 92k miles) was as noted above with the alternator failing at 134k miles. I did VCG and PCV and FPS at 110k, PS pump at 120k (with serp belt, tensioner and rollers), and the alternator got replaced immediately after it kicked out a “power service urgent” the first time.

When I bought the ’06 last November with 135k miles, it was already a wet mess and I had to do VCG (with PCV and FPS) plus the PS pump and serp with tensioner and rollers as part of a cleanup. Serp rollers were already making noise when cold so I literally parked it until I could do the work.

Your experience may be different but if this vehicle is over 130k and the work has not already been done, I believe a wet engine is what you’ll find when you look under the hood and pull the bottom splash shield. It may appear to be pretty bad but if you take time to do a “cleanup” on the source(s), you should be good for at least another 100k miles.

CB shaft should not be an issue but if you can get a borescope into the back bearing valley, it’ll give you a good sanity check. Engine may or may not have a hole drilled at the bottom, if you do scope the back please get a photo posted (see viewtopic.php?p=514577#p514577 for examples and where to look).

As this is a 2006 it’ll probably have the potential valve body wear issue which can result in poor shifting. Affected TF-80SC for this issue are noted as serial number less than 06J at the beginning (Aisin Warner metal label). As such, a valve body replacement “may” be in your future.

The angle gear to transmission sleeve interface by now is a rusty mess, the packed grease having disintegrated perhaps 7 or 8 years ago. If someone has driven this vehicle hard, the angle gear input and the corresponding sleeve input splines may be pretty worn down so go easy on any launches in the wet with the wheels turned. As a point of reference I stripped out the angle gear in the Sport around 9 months after purchase (stomped on it in the wet at a left turn light, was hecka fun until the “bang”) I have an “exchange” angle gear for the Ocean Race on a shelf if it's ever needed although this vehicle was babied most of its life.

Last but not least, if you’re doing an inspection and while the hood is popped, check the check the cap on the bottom passenger side 3-way washer tee (under the hood and attached to the passenger side windshield washer nozzle) to see if it’s cracked and/or leaking, another heat related item. A broken tee can spray washer fluid onto the alternator if it’s missing.

I have a ton of photos over on Swedespeed if you want to some visual references for leaks and seeps and we did a sort of ballpark estimate for much of this work a couple months ago to give folks an idea as to what’s involved with some of the V8 centric jobs- https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/stan ... 90.638488/ and anyone who’s done these is most welcome to provide comments on my DIY estimates, why it’s there.

I’m really fond of the V8 for this vehicle and have no regrets with either of my purchases (I move up from a 5 cylinder). I knew what I was getting into before I bought them (bonus for me with the ’06 was that the valve body had already been replaced under warranty by the original owner). If you know pretty much what to expect and you’re willing to do the work (as required) you can have some great fun with this powerplant.

Good luck with your search.

edit 042221- fix a few typos

[cuhfs]

Happy with mine. 156K miles. Biggest repairs to date are the PS pump and catalytic converter . In the middle of Passenger CV axle swap (ripped boot) & wheel bearing and transmission Valve Body.