Possible timing problem

[Herkko]

Thanks. Just what I thought. If a camlock tool is used the same can be done by turning by hand to get both cams' grooves equally level for the tool (when the belt is not on).

[SVO LOU]

Cheers for the help guys,

Gave it a crack today. Was running ok with no code until my 2nd trip, then the code came back. It's definitely running better, it still has the vibration at certain points but it is less pronounced and the fuel efficiency has improved but is still not optimal.

I will give it another go tomorrow or the next day, if that doesn't work I think I will take it to the mechanic.

One thing I noticed was that the spring-loaded exhaust sprocket didn't spring back when moved forward a tooth or two into the advanced position as what happens in the video.

Just in case anyone sees this and I am doing something wrong I will post my method below.
1. Rotate crank with timing belt on to the alignment marks on all pulleys.
2. Release the tensioner.
3. Remove belt from exhaust pulley.
4. Rotate exhaust 90degree forward (clockwise).
5. Rotate exhaust back (anti-clockwise) to a few teeth before alignment lines up.
6. Move the exhaust sprocket to the end of its free movement range (clockwise) so that it aligns to the mark and install the belt.


I feel my timing was pretty good so maybe it could be one of the following?
1. Spring loaded exhaust pulley faulty (not springing back or loading)
2. Pulley is not aligned right to the cam. (might need to cam lock and start that process)
3. Could just be a faulty sensor (cam or crank) that would be throwing the code and causing poor performance.

Cheers
Rigs

setup on step 1 is still wrong.
Rotate crank beyond mark by 90 degs, then roll it back to the timing mark.
Then remove belt.

Not all cvvt are spring loaded .

Hope it's ok with the op to jump on his thread but I just did a TB/WP on an 01 XC70 yesterday, and like the op my cvvt is on the exhaust cam.
The car is running fine but can someone confirm if I did it right or just got lucky?
I turned the crank pulley CW until all 3 marks were lined up (crank and both cams), marked the valve cover behind the cams, then removed belt (R & R water pump, idler, and tensioner). I noticed the exhaust cam spun CCW a little when I removed the belt and felt a little notchy when turning it CW to feel the spring action but didn't think anything of it.
When putting the belt back on I placed the belt on the intake pulley first then spun the exhaust cam CW to line the mark back up and finish installing the belt.
Did I just luck out?
Do you rotate the belt CW so the marks line up then another 90 degrees CW then back CCW to take out any slack in the belt?
Thanks all.

[abscate]

It sounds like it’s right but you should wind the VVT hub(s) back with the ccw rotation to set it up right

If it doesn’t code in a few days of running, it’s right. It has to be within one tooth of the correct position of both the pulley and the cam or it will code