Vida CEM swapping

Post by **vtl** » 23 Jun 2021, 15:13

Maybe talk to @sparacis, he was able to crack his C30 in-car. User sirloins on swedespeed is who contributed the initial P1 code.

I have an older P1 CEM that cracks reliably with my bench setup.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 23 Jun 2021, 15:16

vtl wrote: 23 Jun 2021, 14:46 That 4159840203 is weird

Consistent 137 @ 31 us ?

konielian · Post by **konielian** » 23 Jun 2021, 16:17

I am not sure what to do

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 23 Jun 2021, 19:20

konielian wrote: 23 Jun 2021, 16:17 I am not sure what to do

Clean up the hornet's nest of wiring. Lay it out nice and neat with shorter wires. This is a timing attack.
Wiring every which way produces magnetic fields every which way. That where you can get excessive cross talk.

You can try switching to 5V CAN transceivers. If it still does not work try powering the 5V CAN transceivers from a 5V supply other the the Teensy 4.0 . Like a 2 Amp USB adapter that plugs into the 12V auxiliary power outlet.

I noticed you are using Perforated hardboard. If you flip the CAN-LS upside down on the header pins. You can place both CAN transceivers right next to the Teensy 4.0 then connect the CTX and CRX lines with a short and straight 2 - 4 mm jumpers.

ricked · Post by **ricked** » 24 Jun 2021, 04:07

konielian wrote: 22 Jun 2021, 18:36 Hello, i followed the instructions and build the board as attached but i tried several times on P1 and P2 and have the same error.
Car key postion 0 on P2 when i tried, and on P1 i tried on postion 2.
I also tried with 100, 60 and 30 samples on P2 but still no results. Please help

first thing i did is buy original CAN ic's and replace them on blue boards and indeed add 12v power suply( i do it on bench)

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 24 Jun 2021, 08:23

ricked wrote: 24 Jun 2021, 04:07 first thing i did is buy original CAN ic's and replace them on blue boards and indeed add 12v power suply( i do it on bench)

You swapped out the ics with what?

ricked · Post by **ricked** » 26 Jun 2021, 12:33

RickHaleParker wrote: 24 Jun 2021, 08:23
ricked wrote: 24 Jun 2021, 04:07 first thing i did is buy original CAN ic's and replace them on blue boards and indeed add 12v power suply( i do it on bench)
You swapped out the ics with what?

with the original ones, on the china 1 usd board are 1000% fake ones, orginal its a SN65HVD230DR

https://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tex ... 65HVD230DR?

most of fakes cant send or cant receive so before you even start pulling pin from cem you have errors....

the ori one is 2.80 usd also i do ECU repairs and i know a fake IC when i see it

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 26 Jun 2021, 14:40

ricked wrote: 26 Jun 2021, 12:33 with the original ones, on the china 1 usd board are 1000% fake ones, orginal its a SN65HVD230DR

Original is kind of vague. One could say the counterfeit ic is the original for that PCB.

You replaced a counterfeit with a genuine Texas Instruments SN65HVD230DR. Put that way it is clear as a bell what you did.

ricked · Post by **ricked** » 27 Jun 2021, 05:43

RickHaleParker wrote: 26 Jun 2021, 14:40
ricked wrote: 26 Jun 2021, 12:33 with the original ones, on the china 1 usd board are 1000% fake ones, orginal its a SN65HVD230DR
Original is kind of vague. One could say the counterfeit ic is the original for that PCB.

You replaced a counterfeit with a genuine Texas Instruments SN65HVD230DR. Put that way it is clear as a bell what you did.

i did say "with the original ones, on the china 1 usd board are 1000% fake ones, orginal its a SN65HVD230DR " so im not sure what you dont understand about that... even incude the link to it

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 27 Jun 2021, 14:25

ricked wrote: 27 Jun 2021, 05:43 " so im not sure what you dont understand about that... even incude the link to it

My bad your understanding of the English language is so perfect.