Steering Rack Coupler Problem. Topic is solved
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cmbfoto
- Posts: 56
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- Year and Model: 99 S80 02 XC70
- Location: Syracuse NY
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Steering Rack Coupler Problem.
Im installing a new P/S Rack coupler. The U-Joints are worn out and causing too much play in the steering wheel. Removed the interior pinch bolt to the coupler and rubber boot. Sprayed the lower pinch bolt down removed that bolt. Now the coupler is frozen to the steering rack shaft. Tried to gently pry her off from under the dash but no go.... Need Help With This One.![Image]()
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vtl
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It could be the rack itself. Remove the rubber boot and try to wiggle the coupler below the U-joint.
That was the end of my steering rack:
As for the coupler, you can try to smack it off from beneath (the car should be on the ramps) using a long 1/2" extension, but it will likely damage the shaft seal. The safest approach is to lower the rear of the subframe, remove the anti-sway bar and cut the coupler with a Dremel.
But save your time and check the rack for play first.
That was the end of my steering rack:
As for the coupler, you can try to smack it off from beneath (the car should be on the ramps) using a long 1/2" extension, but it will likely damage the shaft seal. The safest approach is to lower the rear of the subframe, remove the anti-sway bar and cut the coupler with a Dremel.
But save your time and check the rack for play first.
- oragex
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As above, too much - or perhaps even little forcing may damage the rack box shaft seal. Even the penetrating oil that you sprayed on will usually leak on the top of this seal and can damage it. Try to cut off without damaging the rack shaft
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- jonesg
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after removing the pinch bolt try inserting a screwdriver blade and prying the slot open a bit to break the bond to the shaft.
Also try inserting the pinch bolt backward, block the slot with a knife blade, the pinch bolt should push the slot wider.
Also try inserting the pinch bolt backward, block the slot with a knife blade, the pinch bolt should push the slot wider.
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vtl
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After decade+ of permanent heat/cool/salt/water the aluminum and steel weld into each other. I was removing it forcibly with a small sledge hammer (5 lbs or so), it was tough. In my case it was fine to destroy the rack (which I did), because I had a factory rebuilt Bosch-ZF laying nearby.
Also the space around the coupler is very limited, you could do only so little without dropping the whole steering rack.
Also the space around the coupler is very limited, you could do only so little without dropping the whole steering rack.
- abscate
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I sweated the same problem on the T5 and had to remove the rack to get that coupler off. It really rusts on. Chance of damaging the rack is really high with chisels and other 'methods'
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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cmbfoto
- Posts: 56
- Joined: 11 January 2014
- Year and Model: 99 S80 02 XC70
- Location: Syracuse NY
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I want to thank everyone who replied to my situation. Yes living in Syracuse NY aka the Salt City reeks havoc with aluminum. Getting a closer look at the joint the prior owner was trying to replace it way back. Shes got 185k and brought her back from the dead last year when the CAM seal blew.
I was able to use two short blocks and a pry bar to pop the coupler off with out damaging the rack. The new Volvo coupler went on easy and the steering is tight no side to side play. After my road test I noticed we had no horn, no audio controls. Just Great...[img]
I was able to use two short blocks and a pry bar to pop the coupler off with out damaging the rack. The new Volvo coupler went on easy and the steering is tight no side to side play. After my road test I noticed we had no horn, no audio controls. Just Great...[img]
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