I have a 2002 C70 that has always had a couple of issues getting worse.
Issue #1) mid throttle drops out, misses and stalls out however if you floor it or keep it below half throttle it runs fine, cruise control iffy.
Issue #2) Occasionally at startup, there is no throttle, you can floor it and its like its disconnected. Idles extremely poorly and usually dies. Shut it off and start it a couple of times and it will clear and run great except issue #1.
Sooooo, I rebuilt the throttle body with a magnetic pickup kit and the car goes like a scalded rabbit, runs fantastic, cruise control works great so it fixed issue #1 but did absolutely nothing for issue #2.
Any ideas, I have a lot of work in this car. At 100k I replaced the motor due to catastrophic fail, cleaned out the oil pan, new belt etc, plugs, new Bosch coils, cleaned PVC system, new vacuum hoses, this car was supposed to go forever. It is an amazing car BUT when it wont start its always when I am in a hurry. Yesterday for the first time I did the no throttle at startup when warm for the FIRST time, before yesterday it was always on cold startup. This is bad...
THoughts?
Mark
ETM - No throttle at startup, idles poorly or stalls. Finally starts and runs great
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dobrosailor
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leapdragon
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Any chance you can get something like Torque or VIDA on it and look at the throttle reading?
It almost sounds as though the electronics aren't enabling/honoring the throttle yet because they're working on something else that's implicated in startup/idle.
It almost sounds like a fuel system pressure issue. Might also be good to get a realtime reading on fuel pressure.
It almost sounds as though the electronics aren't enabling/honoring the throttle yet because they're working on something else that's implicated in startup/idle.
It almost sounds like a fuel system pressure issue. Might also be good to get a realtime reading on fuel pressure.
- jonesg
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I'd look at the PEM, fuel pressure regulator and pump.
Start by listening for pump cycling at key on.
Should run a few seconds and shut down, its just a hum from the tank.
Try keying on several times to build pressure, see if that helps the start up.
Check fuel pressure at the rail, I think it has the schraeder valve on the end, use a cheap throw away tire pressure gauge.55psi?
I think beyond that you need vida to read codes, the PEM should be in the trunk, its not as susceptible to corrosion.
Start by listening for pump cycling at key on.
Should run a few seconds and shut down, its just a hum from the tank.
Try keying on several times to build pressure, see if that helps the start up.
Check fuel pressure at the rail, I think it has the schraeder valve on the end, use a cheap throw away tire pressure gauge.55psi?
I think beyond that you need vida to read codes, the PEM should be in the trunk, its not as susceptible to corrosion.
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dobrosailor
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I do not think it is the pump, if it lasts long enough sputtering along before the throttle becomes responsive, the ETM light comes on…
- jonesg
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ETM light ? on what .dobrosailor wrote: ↑07 Jul 2021, 15:39 I do not think it is the pump, if it lasts long enough sputtering along before the throttle becomes responsive, the ETM light comes on…
are you running a diagnostic program ?
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dobrosailor
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On the dashboard. If it takes too long, like 90 seconds or two minutes for the throttle to come online then the ETM light comes on. Once the throttle comes online it drives great for any distance you want to go. After I drive it for half an hour the ETM light goes off again.And I could drive across country, as long as I don’t turn it off and come out the next morning for about 15% of my starts
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3p141592654
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you should check what codes are being set as the first order of business. Yes, there is an ETM light on my car too separate from the MIL.
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