I'm back! And in the wrong section! Topic is solved

[Chuck W]

The windshield will need to be pulled to fix that properly.

[CIK7]

The windshield will need to be pulled to fix that properly.

Yes. Yesterday I scheduled an appt at the auto glass shop for Monday. They are going to remove, clean up, and reapply.

[volvolugnut]

The windshield will need to be pulled to fix that properly.

Yes. Yesterday I scheduled an appt at the auto glass shop for Monday. They are going to remove, clean up, and reapply.

I strongly suggest you have the rest repaired before getting the windshield replaced.

volvolugnut

[manovlov]

Well, Well, what a furious funky project that you have here... and Manov always 3 posts pages late....

Pictures seem to be frightening, but time, passion and patience will come over issues they show.

[CIK7]

On these NA models wether in junkyard or for sale (and on my 98 s70 gt) I ALWAYS find 1 metal flip switch around the switch area. Some dunce put a red cover over this one I have. WHAT is that switch for on the NA models?

[CIK7]

So...I had the windshield removed today. The only things rusty are the top driver side half of windshield, driver A piller, base of driver side A pillar, the rear bumper brackets, and a couple spots on hood around grille. The body, inside of frame, floor pan, and subframe are all good. Actually a couple engine bolts are rusty too. Replaced 2 pcv screws today
I want to know why the NAs I see out there have an aftermarket metal toggle switch. They all have them.

[CIK7]

Alright here is an AWESOME update. Unfortunately I forgot to take a lot of pics. I apologize. Please refer to all previous pics to see the rust.
I used the grinder to get rid of almost all the rust. I sanded it down to get rid of the rest of it. I cleaned it up. I applied bondo in and around all holes and over almost all expose metal. The grinder was pulling a bit so I accidentally scuffed the paint down to the metal on the topside of the A pillar. I sanded that a bit and applied gray primer (the black spots). The bigger-than-golfball hole I patched with a metal mesh Bondo body patch. I first took filler and pressed it through the mesh to establish the foundation. Then I took gobs more and pressed it in. Lemme just say, that was a LOT of Bondo. Just below the Bondo'd hole, you can see the dark gray solid line. That is where one of the weld points are for the engine bay. I had to grind through that to get the remaining rust. I used a thick layer of dark gray JB Weld to redo the weld. I sanded all the bondo per the instructions of my local body shop.
I took it to my local auto glass shop and got a new windshield installed. They did a fairly NEAT job, contrast to the super SLOPPY job the previous windshield had.
Tidbit: this car is from Ohio. Robert Spinner told me the previous glass shop probably scraped away the paint while scraping away the old seal, so water crept underneath and caused rust on the exposed metal.

There is a possibility that James Bondo once drove this car.

[ZionXIX]

Does it pass the leak test?

[CIK7]

Does it pass the leak test?

Lol I don't know just yet. I think today is Day #4 after getting the new windshield. Going to coverit up tonight because of the storms but will check on Wednesday. He said there's a time frame like 3 days, but to be sure, I'll give it a week. He said there is no warranty because the windshield is sitting on bondo, not the frame like normal.

[volvolugnut]

If it does not leak, this repair should be good for a few years. Bondo is not great in thick sections. It may crack or shrink. Paint all of the Bondo to help protect it.
Worth trying.
volvolugnut