PCV Replacement, now no start Topic is solved

[br0dy519]

Replaced flame trap and all associated hoses including the big coolant/vacuum one that goes to the snorkel and thermostat. New banjo bolts and crush washers on both ends. Job was complete and now the car cranks but won't turn over and start. I can smell fuel it kind of smells like it's flooding itself so I know the injectors are working. Never had a no-start issue before today. One time when I was attempting to start I got an "immobilizer see manual" message. I disconnected/reconnected the battery and tried the other key and still no-start issue but haven't been able to duplicate the immobilizer message.

First troubleshooting step was to try and jump the car, it had been sitting for a week. No dice. Then I checked all fuses, none are blown. I checked all the electrical connectors that I touched, TB connector ( Know it's OK because I hear it calibrate when i do POS II for a minute), that connector on the rear right side of the engine (is that the crankshaft pos sensor? ), coolant temp sensor, all injectors, rad fan.

I also put in a throttle body (purchased used from LKQ) and gasket today to try and see if that will help an intermittent throttle body code I've been getting. Also put in a new purge valve to attempt to solve a purge valve error I was getting. Tomorrow I'm going to try my old throttle body and purge valve and see if maybe the ones I got are DOA? Could either of those cause no-start?

Looking for some direction here guys. Feeling pretty defeated at the moment and need to walk away from it today and attempt to enjoy the remainder of this beautiful weekend.

[leapdragon]

So I've done the PCV job several times have been lucky not to encounter everything like this, it feels like one of those things that's gonna be basic when you find it.

Since usually you have to pull the fuel rail and also pull a couple coils up top, and do a lot of messing about with big, frustrating hoses, those are obvious places to start.

- Did the fuel rail get seated properly (injectors into intake)?
- Did the fuel rail get seated properly (fuel line into rail)?
- Did the fuel pressure sensor take a subtle blow and/or do you have good pressure?
- Are the coils that got reinstalled properly seated (i.e. actually on the plug) and reconnected?
- Are all the airflow hoses (turbo, throttle body, etc.) actually still in place and seated when you rubberneck a visual inspection?

When you say it turns over and doesn't start—is it a dead, flat turnover or does it sound like it's trying to catch (i.e. likely at least some spark and some fuel) but failing?

Any codes in VIDA and/or another monitoring tool (Torque + a bluetooth dongle is cheap and can give good data)? Could be reasonable to check real-time measures like throttle position, sensed fuel pressure, timing advance, etc. to see if anything looks odd.

[jkatz]

You are correct that the sensor at the rear of the engine on the transmission flange is the crank/RPM sensor. It only has a 3” pigtail coming out of the loom, and it it pretty close to where you place a wrench for the rear banjo bolt. I accidentally yanked a wire out of the connector while tightening that rear banjo bolt when I did this job, and I was treated to a no-start until I rebuilt the connector.
As leapdragon said a scan tool will tell you if that is your issue too.

[br0dy519]

Thanks both of you guys so much for replying and giving me a glimpse of hope.

So I began my day by plugging in VIDA, and looking at some basic things. Coolant temperature, throttle angle and position, and all injectors activated 1 by 1- everything looked and sounded good. I read the codes which showed nothing relevant. I took off the airbox and shone a flashlight under the intake and everything looked and felt super tight. I had an air leak on a prior issue earlier this year, so I'm very cognizant of all air hoses going in even and tight.

I was about to take a video of it cranking and trying but not starting to verify the noise, but to my surprise it turned over and started! I wonder if I experienced lawn mower syndrome and just flooded the cylinders too much last night.

Once started, I can hear an audible air hiss from injector 2, and 4. I verified they are leaking as I sprayed carb cleaner in at both of those and the engine stumbled noticeably. I remember upon install that I had to remove some pintle caps that had been destroyed when I pulled the rail. Are the pintle caps crucial or can I get away with just replacing the o-rings and lubing them with a little bit of vaseline prior to install? I'm having a heck of a time trying to source these caps locally.

Also just something to note down: my particular 2004 xc70 has no fuel pressure sensor, nor PEM. It appears to be an earlier chassis # that is just driven by the fuel pump relay by my research.

[jonesg]

I would buy the service kit for all 5 injectors, FCP Euro should have them or ebay for $20.
Or try the dealership, they're usually reasonable on small parts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174852642582?c ... s8QAvD_BwE