Would you buy a 2007 V70 2.5T with 170k with P0302 and P0243

[cn90]

Some years ago in 2012, I bought a 1998 S70 with 150K for $2300. This was the last time I'd buy a high-mileage vehicle bc I had to sink in another $2500 for random repairs and countless hours of labors. On the positive note, the forum ended up with quite a few DIYs!!!

Back to your business, a high-mileage vehicle may seem cheap at $1500-$200 etc. but you will end up sinking more $ in it.

Best is to find a lower mileage vehicle such as 100K, spend $4000 and enjoy it for the next 10 yrs. Of course you still have to spend $ on it, but at 100K miles, it should not be too bad. Just search for a well-maintained vehicle...

[RickHaleParker]

If you go to check it out. Clear the codes take it for a test drive. Be sure to kick in the turbo a few times. See what codes comes back. One or more of the codes maybe an artifact.

[iamhives]

I wish a good ~2007 V/XC70 with about 100k could be had for $4k. But right now it seems like going rate in more like $5.5 - $6k (as least in the NoVA area) for a car that has maintenance history and a clean title in the sellers name. COVID used car prices are still out of control and seems like almost all sellers are flippers buying cars from auctions trying to (illegally) skip/jump title and make a quick buck.

[cn90]

In 2018, I bought my 2004 V70 with 101K miles for $4300. Beautiful car, well-maintained by the dealer.

For the last 3 yrs, I did not have to do much just basic routine stuff (wipers, tires etc.).

Covid drives used cars price up for sure. The key thing is be patient, the right car will come along...

[GlennG2759]

I have a very similar story to CN90. ‘06 V70 with just over 100k, sweet car. Dealer maintained, driven by soccer mom. Bought for $3K in 2018, put about 1500.00 into it (pcv, timing belt, complete suspension rebuild and few others things. There out there, just be patient. 100k is the mileage there either going to unload it or have sink possibly 3-5 thousand at a dealership into to keep it up. Good luck in your search.

[SuperHerman]

At 120k it is timing belt time - with the adds it is $1500 plus at the dealer. Then there is the PCV which is another $1k. So at 100k one is looking at $2500 in dealer repairs just on those two items. Then you have suspension which is fading fast at 100k and tires which will be approaching end of life on a second set.

I bought a S60 with 120k and did the PCV service, prior owner ran synthetic and changed it every 3k. I wasted my money on doing it because everything was spotless. Maintenance is key, but dealer maintenance will not yield the results my old S60 had.

I guess what I am saying, even a 100k example has expensive repairs on the horizon. If one can do the work themselves I don't see a ton of difference between 100k and 170k other than wear and tear on the body and interior. A good service history helps, but the timing belt is there as well as the suspension unless it has been done. One has to look at the service history. More important one has to look at the actual car.

I would pick a $1k V70 at 170k over a $4k V70 at 100k, assuming I am going to keep the car long term. That 3k in parts will get everything done and give another 100k miles. Dealer service is expensive, but not everyone is DIY.

[cn90]

Well,

- $1k V70 at 170k over a $4k V70 at 100k?

- There is more to 170K:
* Seats are usually worn.
* Alternator lifespan
* PS Pump
* PCV
* Thermostat
* Belts/Pulleys
* Wheel bearings
* Engine valves at risk of being burnt
* MAF
* Spark Plugs
* Steering Rack
* Suspensions
etc.

This is why I now focus on soccer mom's car with 90K-110K rnage, serviced at dealer lol...

The salesmen at dealer told me they take trade-in all the time, anything below 90K-100K, they keep on the lot to sell as used vehicles.
Anything > 100K, they auction it bc the word "100K" scares people. These cars often end up at local used car dealers.

In my area, there is a used car dealer that only buys used BMW, Mercedes, Honda, VW and Volvos. I check their website on/off. Or you can tell the local used car dealers what you are looking for, they will call you if they have one that you want...

Anyway, I don't buy anything with > 110K now, and that is just me bc I don't want to spend big bucks/time/effort on these cars any longer, I rather go out with my kids and have other fun...

[SuperHerman]

Isn't that basically what I said?

"I guess what I am saying, even a 100k example has expensive repairs on the horizon. If one can do the work themselves I don't see a ton of difference between 100k and 170k other than wear and tear on the body and interior. A good service history helps, but the timing belt is there as well as the suspension unless it has been done. One has to look at the service history. More important one has to look at the actual car."

One additional point - low miles doesn't equal a better engine condition. The type of miles driven, specifically start stop city driving (bad) vs highway mileage makes a difference - especially in colder climates. Throw in maintenance history and it is a different song.

Again, "One has to look at the service history. More important one has to look at the actual car."

As to what the salesperson told you, that is only part of the truth. I spent over 10 years representing a number of dealers. I know the system rather well. I don't want to argue with you, but I will point out there is money in taking in a trade and sending to auction or sell it to a used car lot. The latter is done to maximize profits - so calls are made to various lots and the high bidder gets the car. This goes on when the original owner is offering up their trade. For a new car dealer, dealing with a make not aligned with the franchise, repairs are farmed out. It makes more sense to make a for sure $1500 passing it on than tying up money and fixing the car and making $2500, but assuming the 30 day warranty (required in my state).

Things have changed with the current used car market, and new car market. There is no inventory of either so prices are high across the board.

[cn90]

Sorry but a 170K vehicle in general will eat up way more than $3K to bring it up to date.
I used to think like you do, I thought buying cheap cars was fun, wrong...
Those days are gone, I will never buy a used cars with more than 130K-150K.
I have learned my lessons.

Sorry, but I will pay a little more upfront and have a "well maintained soccer mom 100K car"...

Of course a service history is important, but a steering rack, alternator, PS Pump with 170K on them are on borrowed time. They are not cheap.

PS: I know the way new car dealers work, but that is another topic. Of course, the new car dealers low-ball the trade-in and sells it at higher price, they exist to make money.

[abscate]

This is why I now focus on soccer mom's car with 90K-110K rnage, serviced at dealer lol...

Dirk is the master of this. CT seems to be a Mecca of 100-150k well maintained Volvos, gently driven, and reasonably priced.