850/V70 rear hatch lock not fully releasing

[Oro]

I am having trouble with my rear hatch release. I've studied/searched old posts on the problem here and elsewhere, and one of Robert's videos, but I haven't found one that matches my problem. Most seemed to deal with failing lock actuators (solenoid driven) where the problem was not locking/unlocking. My problem seems to be different. Or perhaps it's the same problem, just the early stages before full failure.

- The lock is positive and works each time you depress the remote.
- The catch in the mechanism does not release fully when depressing/squeezing the exterior handle on the door/hatch.
- You can open the door with a slight effort, though the catch does not cam over enough to allow you to close it most of the time.

I have tried lubricating the catch, striker, and pawl inside but it made no difference. I am trying to figure out what the source of the problem is and if I do actually need to tear into the door, which from what I've read is not overly difficult, but is tedious and fiddly.

If there's an answer to this issue out there somewhere I've missed, a link would be great.

The car is a 2000 V70 XC. The rear hatch glass was replaced at some point (prior to my ownership); I found small bits inside when I repaired the trim clips. So a glass person has been inside there before to do a glass replacement, and possibly it could be because of an incomplete repair. The plastic around the catch seems to be broken; so perhaps some plastic shards are blocking the catch/striker inside? IDK.

Thanks!

Pics of the lock mechanism with the catch fully closed, then also as it looks when "open" - catch not fully retracted and some plastic damaged.

[abscate]

Those latches just wear out eventually. I would go the junkyard route , the new one is About $150 from FCP

[abscate]

Some autopsy here. The 1998-2000 are orphan part numbers so watch out for those if junkyarding. Match exactly

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=84018&hilit=Tailgate+latch+1999

End of thread Hasa link to repair of the metal piece, too

[Oro]

Those latches just wear out eventually. I would go the junkyard route , the new one is About $150 from FCP

Thanks for the replies and the link to your old thread. I skimmed it this morning. I'll go through it in detail tonight in a little bit.

Those are now $200 everywhere it seems, FCP or iPd, dealership, too. Normally I'm very happy to get a part from a junkyard, and I do know where there are three 98-00 V70s and XC models in two different yards within 45 minutes from here. But - If this part is so break-prone, and it already broke on my car which is relatively low-mile and well cared for (118k mi), I am leery of spending the time in a yard fighting weeds and black berry bushes (endemic here) for the time it takes to get this part out and find out if it works well. Then I have to wonder how long it will last in mine. As much as it's not my normal procedure, I might bite the bullet and pay $200 for a new one - that is the new cost I see at both FCP and iPd.

iPd is not THAT far away (few hours down in Portland), so even the free basic shipping from them is effectively next day on in-stock items if I order before noon. I might take it apart and see if I can figure any fix first - which seems unlikely. And if not, then I can have the part quickly and the car is only down a two/three days. I like FCP, too, but it is cross-country from here (I am in Seattle-Tacoma area) so I only order parts from them when I know well in advance and don't need it soon. Also I have a couple of $2 and $5 things I want from iPd so then I can bundle it together and thus get them w/ no shipping fee.

Coincidentally, I got an email from iPd a few days ago, they are having a rally/drive through the Columbia River Gorge in about 10 days; I was contemplating going down and doing it for curiosity. Maybe I'll ask them and pick the parts up then. Perhaps then it becomes a (weak) excuse to actually do the run. It's been five or more years since I've driven down in the Columbia River Gorge and it's quite pretty, and then there are some nice back roads east of Mt. St. Helens to get back home.

iPd Volvo "Gorge Run:"

https://www.ipdusa.com/blogs/542/Volvos ... Car-Cruise

[scot850]

I think you are probably going the right route. Like you say the youngest cars are now 21 years old so a used one is likely to be near the end too. If you are planning to keep the car then the price is relatively small compared to a new car payment!

Like abscate says, these parts do wear out. The little bar on the lower part of the hatch opening should have a nylon tube over the metal part. People often don't realise this breaks and goes missing which leads to a rattle from the tailgate. The nylon part also wears a flat in it also giving a rattle.

Although the car is low mileage, if you think how often the tailgate gets open and closed over 20+ years the car mileage is often irrelevant to this issue.

There is a plastic part in the latch mechanism which I think abscate showed that does break causing latch issues.

Make sure on the part numbers and if you have a single or 2 stage latch (single all locks open at the same time, 2-stage the drivers' door latch opens first and then a 2nd press the rest opens.

Neil.