2000 V70R electrical issue continues

[BEJinFbk]

You seem to be missing the 101/102 combo relay.
105 and 106 are the gray ones stamped “Volvo”.
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Swap them and see what you get.

[manovlov]

Could it have to matter with the the dashboard handset in itself ? To read your initial post, i make me think that the power "goes everywhere" inside. Is there a protection in it that could have been burnt while you've plugged accidentaly the battery ?

[scot850]

Thanks guys. My car has never had the 101/102 comb unit. Is that the alarm module? being a 00 year maybe that is now fitted elsewhere or has been deleted.

Thanks BJ for clarifying the 2 Power Relays are the gray ones. I will try to swap those and see if it fixes anything.

Planning a trip to PnP in later this morning as there is a recent 99 S70 come in and see if any of the relays are in there still there. Plan to pull some other stuff if there is still any. So few of these cars come in now they get stripped almost immediately.

Manov, you are saying exactly what I am there must be a common issue. I am hoping it may be those 2 gray relays, in particular 106 which I understand works on the lighting circuit.

Neil.

[scot850]

Abscate , we have a few of those DRL headlight switches turn up and chances are I have one in my stash.

Thanks also for clarifying the Power relays. The issue happens before cranking and can happen as soon as the lights turn on from what I can see. It was initially fine as I tested it with the new light switch when I fitted it. However, first time it was used since then it appeared almost immediately.

Will try the simple fixes first and then if all else fails find the matches!

Neil.

[BEJinFbk]

Looks like 101/102 is a Cruise Control module in some versions.
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The images shown in this post are for 99’s.

[scot850]

My car has cruise control so it may be under the dash and no longer in the fuse box. Either that or The ETM/ECU somehow work to eliminate the relay?

Thanks for the help.

The PnP run was successful in terms of all the relays were still in place except the fuel pump. I have several of those so not worried and with the fix now available it's no big issue. The power relays were there as well as the Light relay. I might have time tomorrow to swap the 106 out and see what happens. At least I have a stash of hopefully good spares now which I didn't before. I'll take the chance on a $10 relay over paying $150+ at the dealer at their 'discounted' rate. Especially until I can figure out what is going on!

Neil.

[abscate]

With the advent of electronic throttle body, the cruise control system is just a couple of inputs into the ECM from the light stalk switch. The ECU completely controls the speed via the EtB, no relays at all,

[scot850]

Thank you oh wise one!!

Neil.

[scot850]

Ok. Today I swapped from my new stash of used parts picked up yesterday.

Swapped out:

1) Light Relay 104/108
2) swapped out the Power relay 106 (twice).
3) Swapped out the headlight switch again with another used one from the stash.

Checked all the light fuses in the 2 fuse boxes and anything that may be related to it.

Started up car and all ran fine. Immediately I turned the light switch to sidelights the engine started running rough and the headlight fullbeam came on (should not be activated) as well as the front fog-light, engine check light and ETS and both direction indicator dash lights.

Switched engine off, switched ignition back on after turning lights off again and all was well until light switch turned again.

Also notice a high pitch whine (it was not me!!) coming from the ETM. Weird as ignition was off? Switched key to position 2 and then back to 0 and the whine stopped at least from the car!

Decided to check the battery for charge. It should be ok, but it was reading only 11.8V. So something is draining the battery.

One last thing. The dash lights are really dull with exception of the Engine Check, ETS, SRS and maybe one more. All the rest are barely lit.

So this makes me think:

1) Electrical portion of the ignition switch is possibly bad. I will check the history to see if it has been replaced. I have a spare used and a new one I can swap in if needed.

2) The battery voltage is low. Is switching the lights on drawing the voltage too low making everything else go wonky as we know how the 99- car just love a low voltage. Maybe the ignition switch electrical portion is damaged (key was not in ignition when battery was sparked).

3) Could the alternator be bad. It was a re-built Bosch unit direct from Bosch about 9 years ago and has only done about 10,000 miles if that. I know alternators had a one way diode in it that can be damaged, but when the 2 battery cable touched the battery terminals they were the correct terminals.

4) I do have a couple of used turn signal/headlight/cruise signal switches I could also swap out

Any suggestions? I can't do an alternator test as that required the headlights to be on and that ain't working!!

Neil.

[abscate]

First step , full battery charge. 24 hours on 6 Amps minimum

While that’s charging inspect the wiring harness around the fuse box and both headlights for signs of rodents

* in the 1400s Swedish carts were lit by a small kerosene lamp made by a guy named Lucas. He was terrible at his job, so the Swedes finally out him in a boat at night and pushed out to sea in exile. No one knows where he landed. History went dark after this