Parts to hoard for 1998-2000 S/V70?

Post by **FireFox31** » 03 Sep 2021, 12:32

erikv11 wrote: 01 Sep 2021, 21:48 Grab the coolant bottle and cap if it looks newish and is Volvo branded - yours is about to crack

Since it may be hard to tell the age of a junkyard coolant tank, would this be a part to buy new before they're no longer available? Volvo brand tanks are on sale at FCP for $66. That seems like cheap insurance for a known weak spot on the car.

What other parts have high failure rates which we should buy new?
Power steering tank - Mine was leaking, ballooned out from 20 years.
Steering rack universal joint - Mine was horribly rusted.

Post by **FireFox31** » 03 Sep 2021, 15:55

At a junkyard, grab:
The rear door downward facing red lights. The ones up front are surely ruined.
Any trim clips which are easily accessible. Beneath trunk trim, etc. Many are available new, but they're a pain to identify.

Post by **FireFox31** » 06 Sep 2021, 20:27

Sounds like junkyard fuel pump relays could use their capacitors replaced.

Post by **FireFox31** » 04 Oct 2021, 13:55

Should we be taking fuel injectors and throttle bodies from junkyards? They are expensive to buy but easy to pull from a car. I wonder how much a junkyard would charge, especially if you tell them "you can't prove that these even work."

Post by **matthew1** » 04 Oct 2021, 14:39

Injectors tend to need two things: occasional refurb and an ultrasonic cleaning. They rarely fail outright. Good thread.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Oct 2021, 05:04

I’ve got a ton of injectors from carcasses. Free to the righteous.

Okay, maybe not a ton. That’s not even modern units, anyway.

Post by **scot850** » 05 Oct 2021, 19:10

You have a tonne of them?!

I pulled a ETM for $40 from my local PnP. 2 days later it went to our new friend Calvin in Hawaii. It fixed the warning lights and engine ran great. I only charged him what it cost me plus shipping. Feel good factor 100/100. Great to help out a fellow enthusiast.

For all this good work it about time the Volvo gods looked after me and fixed my dash light issue!

Neil.

Post by **FireFox31** » 15 Oct 2021, 07:44

Get the good brass brake line fittings. Your rear fitting threads will wear out or they'll get stuck when the caliper rusts. Though stuck, the brass ones can be removed because they don't rust. I can find nowhere to buy M10 x 1 x 3/16" fittings in brass like Volvo uses. Instead, I only see steel ones which will surely rust firmly in the caliper requiring you to cut and flare the line.

The fittings at the ends of the four brake lines may be no good (rear stuck in caliper, front at hose with worn threads). But the rear which connect to the hoses deeper under the car at the hoses should be possible to remove and have perfect threads. Feel free to cut the metal line and rubber hose, then carefully separate the fittings once you're back at home.

The fittings inside at the ABS module and master cylinder are larger than M10 x 1. They're kind of accessible so I grabbed one, but don't think I'll need it.

Or can anyone find where to buy these in brass? Skandix has fittings but I can't confirm they are solid brass like Volvo uses.

Post by **scot850** » 15 Oct 2021, 15:23

Be careful where this leads! You can see how my garage has ended up!

: Electrical parts and lights

Most of the parts on the RH shelf unit apart from the travel fridge and large white box on the top shelf are larger electrical parts and lights.

: Larger parts

Blue shelves have 3 shelves of longer awkward parts to store. Work bench below has 10+ sets of floor mats and many other larger parts.

: All larger parts mechanical

: Top shelf has dash pad

: Smaller mechanical and electrical parts

: New arrivals

Now in fairness there are some Toyota pats in here and a few P2 parts, but the majority are P80 parts including 850 which I no longer have. I am now being pressured to start finding homes for some of these!

Neil.

Post by **BlackBart** » 15 Oct 2021, 15:47

I see a garage leading to a garage.....that must be the "inner sanctum."