Good insights, thank you.
They are a powder coat shop, so I can't give them the work. I may show them the bill and just ask what they are comfortable helping with.
Parking Brake Failure
- 99TurboBrick
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*shrug*
The cable wasn't their fault. Buy a new pair and replace them both. No need to have them cover any costs of that, IMO.
Find what you need to fix/replace the center console piece and see if they'll cover that.
The cable wasn't their fault. Buy a new pair and replace them both. No need to have them cover any costs of that, IMO.
Find what you need to fix/replace the center console piece and see if they'll cover that.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
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'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.
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Didnt mean to sound preachy, but looking back it could read that way. Emotion and Context lost in text, of course.99TurboBrick wrote: ↑10 Jan 2022, 08:01 Good insights, thank you.
They are a powder coat shop, so I can't give them the work. I may show them the bill and just ask what they are comfortable helping with.
Customers who approach this way always get welcomed back..ust ask what they are comfortable helping with.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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Tough call on what to ask them to replace since this failure was inevitable. Their only fault might have been pulling the handle harder than you do. I would ask for $35 as half of the plastic cover.
When drafting my first reply, I started by saying to remove the center console. Then I remembered that adjusting the hand brake came last, so moved that to the end. Should have gone with my instinct and left it first. Do get the Haynes manual for clear info on how to remove this. It's straightforward if you're gentle.
When drafting my first reply, I started by saying to remove the center console. Then I remembered that adjusting the hand brake came last, so moved that to the end. Should have gone with my instinct and left it first. Do get the Haynes manual for clear info on how to remove this. It's straightforward if you're gentle.
Tangential, but is it always true that a slowly releasing parking brake shoe is the fault of the cable? One of mine is slow and I'm going to first clean and lubricate the bottom adjuster. I also blame my rusty brake dust shields for potentially catching on it. When I replace those, I'm going to ensure the parking brakes move perfectly.
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scot850
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Yes to all your suggestions, but the most likely reason is a swollen or broken inner cable causing drag. To properly check it you will have to dis-assemble the rear brake on that side to check the cable so it is worth cleaning and lubing the mechanism while in there.
With the cable disconnected, hold onto the end of the cable with pliers and have someone pull on the parking brake lever and see if the cable moves smoothly. Then have them release the cable with you keeping tension on it and see if it releases quickly. If the cables are the originals they have done their job. New one are not cheap but I only recommend Volvo OE parts. Yes more expensive but at least they fit!
Neil.
With the cable disconnected, hold onto the end of the cable with pliers and have someone pull on the parking brake lever and see if the cable moves smoothly. Then have them release the cable with you keeping tension on it and see if it releases quickly. If the cables are the originals they have done their job. New one are not cheap but I only recommend Volvo OE parts. Yes more expensive but at least they fit!
Neil.
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Thanks for the info. Is it recommended to replace the cables in pairs? Then they'll both be not-stretched instead of having an old one which is stretched. Seems better on the handle balancer bar too.
FireFox31
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They don’t stretch much on my experience. If a cable moves easily and hadn’t been water attacked, I would not replace it
Empty Nester
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Agreed, although, if you are taking stuff apart and have the center console out it may be worth considering, particularly on a manual trans car.
Neil.
Neil.
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- 99TurboBrick
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Well, I did not expect this. The shop just called me and said they have good news. They said the cable wasn't broken, and that all the brake drums/components looked good. They even went out into the parking lot and tested it.
I told them the right cable definitely IS broken, and that's why I even left the broken piece in a magnetic dish on the front seat.
I'm kind of beside myself right now. This is a shop of Volvo specialists that is well reviewed and has been around for decades.
UPDATE: They called back and said they found the broken cable.
I told them the right cable definitely IS broken, and that's why I even left the broken piece in a magnetic dish on the front seat.
I'm kind of beside myself right now. This is a shop of Volvo specialists that is well reviewed and has been around for decades.
UPDATE: They called back and said they found the broken cable.
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99TurboBrick wrote: ↑12 Jan 2022, 10:01
that's why I even left the broken piece in a magnetic dish on the front seat.
I'm kind of beside myself right now. This is a shop of Volvo specialists that is well reviewed and has been around for decades.
UPDATE: They called back and said they found the broken cable.
One side working is enough to get the clicks necessary to hold the car on a flat lot
If they work on Volvo's exclusively or mostly long enough, they'll see and work on all the various and obvious problems but that does not make them good diagnostic technicians.
*
Blessings,
BKM
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BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
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