P80 P2 Coolant pipe o-ring & install 976045 Topic is solved

[bmdubya1198]

Yeah, it's a super tight fit. That's the biggest problem with avoiding damage to the o-ring.

[Sveedy]

Looking at this more closely today, I don't see how any life sized human could possibly fit that o-ring from the water pump side with the engine installed. And as much fun as it's been, I'm not up for pulling the engine again, at least not for some years, and by then they will have taken away my license anyway. So I'm thinking of pulling the pipe out, setting the new o-ring in place with a gasket maker overnight, and then peening the leading edge of the pipe over just a enough to allow it to get started into the o-ring. Originally that pipe has a clean cut edge, which isn't conducive to ever just slipping over an o-ring. I peened it a bit even before this install, but not enough I guess.
But I'm open to other suggestions. I did think of going down and dirty and just JB Welding or equ. the pipe to the housing, but I'm not there .....yet.

[bmdubya1198]

I don't think you would be able to get the o ring in from the front side (water pump). Having the pump out is more to gain a visual on the pipe. I don't think it's necessary though. Some RTV probably couldn't hurt anything on reinstallation, though.

[abscate]

Maybe a brand new water pipe sans corrosion is worth a try? I see about $125 for that part at volvopartswebstore

Install with Si grease maybe ?

User darylrobert down under worked on a water pipe back in 2015, wonder if he has insights.

Thread here, ping hi:in PM or EM

memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=29753

[Sveedy]

So has anyone successfully installed this pipe with the engine in place ?
I'm thinking that I might try a different o-ring. The new one i received would fall out of its recess because it was too small of a diameter. That seems to be the only problem. Had to be stretched to even fit over the end of the pipe, so I really question whether it's the right size to begin with. Or the end of that pipe should be tapered slightly to allow it to get started and then it would stretch and push the o-ring into place. Another option would be to just get another pipe, cut it and epoxy it in place, and then couple the two pipes together.

[bmdubya1198]

I've removed it on an S60R once, but it was a pain. Took a lot of prying to get it out of the block. Obviously yours should come out easier, being that you just installed it.
I don't think I've installed one with the engine in situ.

[Sveedy]

How about this : Using a hacksaw, cut a couple of small ( 2 - 4 mm ) notches in the leading edge of the pipe.Then carefully peen the edge over till those saw kerfs are closed up. This should give the end of the pipe a pretty good taper. I can of course check it with the o-ring. Sand, buff, grease and slide the pipe in. The only possible drawback is that the pipe diameter is now slightly smaller where it enters the water pump, but I don't think it could really affect flow at that point in the system.

[bmdubya1198]

Hmm, I don't know if that would be necessary. I would get a new genuine Volvo o-ring (and the gasket, of course), slide it all out, and reassemble with some vaseline on the o-ring, being careful not to roll it.

[FireFox31]

Looking at this more closely today, I don't see how any life sized human could possibly fit that o-ring from the water pump side with the engine installed.

Sounds like I should certainly not try to replace the horribly rusty coolant pipe in Geronimo with the engine in place. I was planning to do it with the right axle and steering rack removed, accessing it from below. But the coolant pump would be in place.

Sounds like I'd have to replace the rack, axle, coolant pipe, AND timing belt and coolant pump all at once.

[abscate]

Looking at this more closely today, I don't see how any life sized human could possibly fit that o-ring from the water pump side with the engine installed.

Sounds like I should certainly not try to replace the horribly rusty coolant pipe in Geronimo with the engine in place. I was planning to do it with the right axle and steering rack removed, accessing it from below. But the coolant pump would be in place.

Sounds like I'd have to replace the rack, axle, coolant pipe, AND timing belt and coolant pump all at once.

That sounds much safer. I do have a couple of blocks lying around I can look take some pictures and add to the water pipe thread.