87 Wagon locks but does not unlock no Topic is solved

warmblood58 · Post by **warmblood58** » 19 Apr 2022, 08:25

My ring is correct on the driver door lock cylinder, I cleaned up the exposed 3 wires at the switch and at the actuator (exposed wire) and I get relay action which will close the locks but not unlock? Bad unlock solenoid? Has anyone accessed these recently? Hard to get to? Thanks!

Post by **volvolugnut** » 19 Apr 2022, 08:30

Can you apply 12 volts directly to the solenoid wires to see is the switch is bad? After 35 years the solenoid or switch may have given up. Switch might be cleaned and revived. Solenoid would likely need replacement.
Access solenoid by removing door card. It is below the lock.
volvolugnut

warmblood58 · Post by **warmblood58** » 19 Apr 2022, 08:48

Thanks, this saga began when GF broke off tip of key in driver side lock (yep, she's talented that way!) So replaced lock cylinder, action up and down was sluggish at that time, upon removing ring around lock cylinder I found all insulation gone from the 3 wires entering ring so I was able to insulate them and also repair a section of exposed wire at actuator. I was thinking of the solenoids (2) that are behind central vents, thinking that the open lock solenoid might have given up coincidentally when door panel removed, etc. There is a solenoid under lock actuator?

Post by **volvolugnut** » 19 Apr 2022, 09:37

Maybe more wire damage. 1980's Volvos had wire insulation crumbling problems everywhere.
The lock actuator (solenoid) is located below the door handle and key lock. Sorry, I was confusing.
Do you have the door panel removed? Wait, I see you said it was on other post. Let's stick to just this one.

volvolugnut

warmblood58 · Post by **warmblood58** » 19 Apr 2022, 09:53

Door lock is also working as it should as I note that I can not push button down when door is open - I might exercise lock a few times to see it this helps

warmblood58 · Post by **warmblood58** » 19 Apr 2022, 10:13

when I unplug/plug 3 wire connector that connects to actuator at door, lock buttons go down solidly but thats it. Driver door locks manually just fine --- oh boy, more fiddling around, I wonder if my lock cylinder ring is just plain defective . . .

Post by **volvolugnut** » 19 Apr 2022, 11:09

What do you mean 'lock cylinder ring'?
volvolugnut

warmblood58 · Post by **warmblood58** » 19 Apr 2022, 11:46

SUCCESS! Well . . . I pulled actuator out to look up into cylinder to see if I had more bad insulation there but it look ok save for one tiny spot - reinstalled actuator, put key in lock and now have buttons lock and unlocking. I did also clean fuse 8 contacts previously which allows for better voltage transfer but the act of removing actuator physically and reinstalling changed something-who knows, could have been grounding out somewhere . . . ???

warmblood58 · Post by **warmblood58** » 19 Apr 2022, 11:48

volvolugnut wrote: ↑19 Apr 2022, 11:09 What do you mean 'lock cylinder ring'?
volvolugnut

This is the black plastic circular ring that snaps around the lock cylinder that creates ground/ungrounded contact when the door key is turned in the lock thus creating lock/unlock in the door actuators.