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What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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cn90  
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by cn90 »

Yep,

A simple drain is about 3.3-3.5 qts. So yours was likely overfilled.
I have done the 2.4, 2.5T engine Aisin trans ATF many times, the magic is about 3.5 qts for the final fill.
I wrote the tricks in forum.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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DonnVa
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Post by DonnVa »

cn90 wrote: 25 Jun 2022, 14:49 Yep,

A simple drain is about 3.3-3.5 qts. So yours was likely overfilled.
I have done the 2.4, 2.5T engine Aisin trans ATF many times, the magic is about 3.5 qts for the final fill.
I wrote the tricks in forum.
Yup, that’s what it was for my S60 last year. This one was way over filled. I drove it to the recycling center to dispose of all the tranny fluid, came back and checked it. It was right at full, hot. And it was hot, let me tell you… 😂 I got smart and taped a rag to my left forearm.
2005 XC70 Cross Country 2.5T 185k miles
1962 122s 4dr 100k+ TMU
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2007 S60 2.5T
1996 850 GLT
1974 164E
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1994 325i
2007 335 coupe
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cn90  
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Post by cn90 »

There is a way to check ATF level with COLD engine (engine OFF) in the morning. No need to burn your hand checking ATF level.
I posted the tips in this forum...
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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Krons
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Post by Krons »

cn90 wrote: 25 Jun 2022, 21:59 There is a way to check ATF level with COLD engine (engine OFF) in the morning. No need to burn your hand checking ATF level.
I posted the tips in this forum...
I searched and not sure I found the right post...is this comment it?
when engine off and cold, the level should be a bit above Max.
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08 C702.5T (sold)
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cn90  
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Post by cn90 »

Yes,

Assuming you are not replacing a brand-new transmission and need to circulate the ATF through the gears, then that is true.

You can verify it yourself, assuming this is the daily driver. I learned this from Honda, where ATF check is
done with engine off. Anyway, for Volvo P2:

- After going home from work, put the engine in Park, leave the engine running, wear dishwasher gloves
for skin protection (you don't want your hand/skin burned), pull the ATF dipstick, check and make a note of the level.
Let's say it is 3 mm below Max.

- Leave the car alone in the same spot. Next morning, check the ATF level with engine cold/off, you will see
that the ATF level is about 3 mm above Max. This is how I check my Volvo ATF now: engine cold an/off
and aim for 3 mm above Max. No need to burn my hand/skin.

All info in the thread below:

Volvo 850 AT drained 5+ qts trans safest way to refill?
viewtopic.php?t=81549&start=20


PS: As @abscate said, if you own a BMW E83 X3 or E39 5-series or E46 3-series, there is no ATF dipstick
for you to check. The procedure for BMW ATF check is very elaborate (engine running at specific temp, remove the fill bolt and fill until ATF runs out etc. etc.). Basically the Germans turned something very simple to a stupid process. Sometimes you got to love the Japanese for their simplicity thinking...
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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erikv11  
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Post by erikv11 »

Japanese manufacturers have also built transmissions with that same complicated method for adjusting the ATF level, and put them into many cars including Volvos, it is not specific to German-built cars or transmissions.

For P2 Volvo cars equipped with the 6 speed Japanese-built TF-80SC automatic transmissions (made by Aisin) it's the same: there is no dipstick and the fill level procedure involves removing a nested drain bolt and letting ATF drip out while tracking the temperature of the transmission to a specific range.

Maybe someone who knows more about transmissions could explain (or speculate!) why this design principle showed up in the industry. Beyond just "let's not allow the buyer to easily check the fluid level" :)
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
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gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

The Bavarian Money Waster design is bring it into the lounge, eat $10 of haute cuisine, while the $15 an hour tech checks it on the lift. Pay your $900 Service I one bill on the way out, please.
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DonnVa
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Post by DonnVa »

Over the last couple of evenings I replaced my timing belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, exhaust & intake cam seals (front & back) and CVVT O rings. Everything went smooth. It started up and purred like a kitten. I swear the more times I install the serpentine belt, the worse I get at it or maybe I was just tired. Anyway, it was a pain in the butt this evening.
2005 XC70 Cross Country 2.5T 185k miles
1962 122s 4dr 100k+ TMU
-Previous-
2007 S60 2.5T
1996 850 GLT
1974 164E
-Notable-
1983 911sc
1994 325i
2007 335 coupe
30 + other cars and trucks

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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Damn battery light came on today at startup. Pulled over and measured 14.3 at the battery and the cig lighter. Turned off and back on and never came back. What gives? Hope I don’t need an alternator.
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prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

When the brushes get near end of life you will get the occasional battery light. Best to haul it off and take it to a local auto electric shop for a $100 rebuild vs the crappy rebuilt ones in the supply chain now
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