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Fix a Volvo flip/switchblade key - DIY, pics and advice

A mid-size luxury crossover SUV, the Volvo XC90 made its debut in 2002 at the Detroit Motor Show. Recognized for its safety, practicality, and comfort, the XC90 is a popular vehicle around the world. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America). P2 platform.
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Fix your Volvo key flip /switchblade key - pics and advice
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ggleavitt
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Re: Fix a Volvo flip/switchblade key - DIY, pics and advice

Post by ggleavitt »

I used the key a couple times since the “fix” and while it's holding up fine, I can already see some delamination of the silicone right at the end of the key case. So trying to pin the down the case flex at the end is key (pun intended) to making this repair last in my opinion. I looked at one of my '08 keys, that end is already showing a small fracture (case is original) so flex is a normal part of function that needs accommodated once you re-use an OE key case.

I like the idea of creating more surface area for the adhesive. I also like the idea of the previous poster who used the thumbtack to hold the bottom of the key assembly tight up against the top. I tried this along with my little screw and it sure seems to lock in whatever flex remains at the end of the key slot. As such, I'm now using a “V4 case” with a stainless 4mm washer under the screw.

I used a handheld rotary tool and a small cylindrical cutting blade to make the notch.When it’s tightened up, there’s no key flex at the end so I’m encouraged. No idea if the brass threaded piece in the base will pull out, time will tell.

Really glad this post is around, folks can see a few options for making key repairs.
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Lucia
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Post by Lucia »

I had service done on my 2004 Volvo XC70 and when I got the car back after being repaired the switchblade on the fob doesn't work, it's just floppy. Rather than try to fix it or even accuse someone at the service center (since I didn't see them break it and they'll probably deny it anyway) how can I permanently get the key to be rigid since it's working fine just not able to close it? Please help, I'm really pissed.

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Post by songzunhuang »

songzunhuang wrote: 21 Sep 2011, 23:33 @theblues - the exact same procedure I described above will work. You'll have to get a new key blade cut, but that's not the expensive part. I have seen blank blades on eBay. What costs is the transponder and the programming required. Dealers will get you on that. It's been over a year since I fixed my key and it's all working just fine still.
Ok, this is a very long term followup. It's now March of 2020 (10 years since original post) and I am still using this key. However, the JB Weld and the super glue gave up and I ended up drilling a tiny hole and securing the front halves of my key with a screw. I think I saw someone else do that in an earlier post. Despite this little update, the fix has been fine and the car (155,0240 and key are still in service.

For the sake of completeness, here's a picture of my fix. I went from the backside so that the front of the key with all the buttons, etc. are not affected.
Permanent fix for case halves.
Permanent fix for case halves.
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Song Huang

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Post by songzunhuang »

Wow, it's 2021. I still have this car and the keyblade fix is still holding up. So, I think a 10+ year run qualifies this as a permanent fix.
Song Huang

1998 V70 T5 - Hurt your eyes red
2000 Honda S2000 - Berlina Black
1984 BMW 633CSi - Dolphin Grey
2024 Lexus - Eminent White Pearl
2004 XC90 T6 AWD Ruby red (RIP)

Phixion
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Post by Phixion »

I'm performing the inevitable button repair on the switch key of my S60... Fortunately I have BOTH keys to the car, so have a very functional 2nd key in using since my other one had the infamous ears to the button break off. That all said, I bought an eBay replacement case but wondered before trying to stick my original back together, what's the best way to remove the transponder capsule to transfer into the new casing to avoid glue, epoxy and driving a new screw through the case? I saw above a member used super glue remover, would soaking in Goo Gone do the same thing? I'm thinking if the adhesive could be loosened enough an Xacto knife should work to gently pry it out... Any ideas?

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Post by ZionXIX »

So I just did this recently. I spent way too much time separating the case at the seam with a box cutter. If I had to do it again I would use a dremel wheel and just focus all my efforts at the seam. There is plenty of clearance as the transponder is at the bottom. After that I kept widdling plastic away until I felt there was as little as possible holding onto the transponder. Mine popped out with a tooth pick. I bought a reproduction case that just snaps together. No gluing needed. The finish is more of a matte black. Just go slow.
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Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
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Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
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Post by goldxc70 »

Over the years, I've repaired both of my original keys when they developed the floppy key syndrome. First time, I cut the original key open, replaced the button with a new one bought on Ebay and glued the original parts together. That key is still going strong 10 years later. When the second key failed, I cut it open and removed the security pellet which I transferred to another blank assembly also bought on Ebay. This one has failed a few times susequently because the epoxy to plastic bond failed. I have recently repaired this using a custom washer under the existing screw to hold the whole thing together. So far so good.

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Post by songzunhuang »

I was reviewing this thread and saw mention of a replacement case. A quick search on Amazon yielded this.
https://smile.amazon.com/Beefunny-Repla ... r_hp_atf_m

Despite the strange brand name, for only $14 you can get a replacement with all the bits you need. This is amazing. When I fixed mine all those years ago, I bought a used key fob on eBay and paid much more for it.

It's good to see that companies are building replacement options for things that break.
Song Huang

1998 V70 T5 - Hurt your eyes red
2000 Honda S2000 - Berlina Black
1984 BMW 633CSi - Dolphin Grey
2024 Lexus - Eminent White Pearl
2004 XC90 T6 AWD Ruby red (RIP)

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Post by Phixion »

ZionXIX wrote: 07 Jul 2022, 06:47 So I just did this recently. I spent way too much time separating the case at the seam with a box cutter. If I had to do it again I would use a dremel wheel and just focus all my efforts at the seam. There is plenty of clearance as the transponder is at the bottom. After that I kept widdling plastic away until I felt there was as little as possible holding onto the transponder. Mine popped out with a tooth pick. I bought a reproduction case that just snaps together. No gluing needed. The finish is more of a matte black. Just go slow.
Curious what you did and how you widdled the plastic away from the transponder capsule? I think the case that I plan to transplant to will hold up. It fits together very tightly, which will be inseparable with some industrial epoxy employed. :wink:

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Post by ZionXIX »

It takes a lot of time and patience. Once the halves are separated you will see how much plastic is holding onto the capsule. I took a sharp box cutter and scraped away plastic one layer at a time. It took hours. Always cut away from the capsule, not towards. Just in case you slip. There was minimal to no epoxy in mine.

*so many typos*
Last edited by ZionXIX on 19 Jul 2022, 22:59, edited 1 time in total.
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle

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