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V70 2.4T - Timing Belt Service Interval - how far can I push it?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Jonboy74
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Re: V70 2.4T - Timing Belt Service Interval - how far can I push it?

Post by Jonboy74 »

volvolugnut wrote: 21 Aug 2022, 13:38 I believe seals are OK if they are not leaking caused by high crankcase pressure. Have you maintained the PCV system and does the engine pass the glove inflation test? If the PVC has not been serviced and you fail the glove test, then plan on cam shaft seals with the other parts.
If you have done the other work you listed, you should not have trouble with timing belt, water pump, etc.
volvolugnut
*sigh*

Well, it had been a while since I had done the glove test, and the PCV has never been done....so I just went out and did the glove test. Looks like a failure to me... :cry:

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smoke from oil dipstick tube
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glove test
glove test
IMG_0393n.jpg (368.53 KiB) Viewed 4292 times
Jonboy

Jonboy74
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Post by Jonboy74 »

kallekula wrote: 21 Aug 2022, 13:55 Timing belts hardly break it’s usually the WP that gives up and causes the belt to come off. Almost every single one I’ve seen that broke was a Hepu.
So what happens? does the WP bearing just lock up and cause the whole thing to go wonky? At that point, I presume the engine is toast?

Jonboy

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

My guesses, if we allow things to run non-stop...

1. The TB itself probably breaks around 140K or so.

2. The Aisin WP: 180K-200K. Very often local garages think the Aisin factory WP needs replacement,
and put in a Chinese WP from local auto parts store, these WPs usually blow up 10K-20K later.

3. The Idler Pulley and the Tensioner Pulleys that I removed at 115K have a lot of life remaining.
Maybe be up to 150K. There are rare reports of mechanical tensioner kaput bc of the spring inside,
not bc of the bearing itself. Recall that the mechanical tensioner is a combo: spring and bearing in one.

Having said that, at your car's age, replace them all: WP + TB kit.

If you don't want to spend much then I have a whole bunch of parts that have only 80K on them.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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volvolugnut  
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Post by volvolugnut »

Here is what I have heard can happen:
Water pump or tensioner fail and the timing belt is torn up. Before the engine stops, the interference valves kiss the piston tops and you have massive damage.
Or the timing belt can fail on it's own and the result is the same.
Or the aux. belt can fail, wrap up in the timing belt and then cause the same bad result.
This all assumes the 2.4 engine is interference like the 2.3 engine.

But you knew all this.

volvolugnut
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kallekula
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Post by kallekula »

Jonboy74 wrote: 21 Aug 2022, 16:11
kallekula wrote: 21 Aug 2022, 13:55 Timing belts hardly break it’s usually the WP that gives up and causes the belt to come off. Almost every single one I’ve seen that broke was a Hepu.
So what happens? does the WP bearing just lock up and cause the whole thing to go wonky? At that point, I presume the engine is toast?

Yeah bearing starts giving up and pump grinds itself to death and seizes.

Jonboy

BMW 540i 2002
S70 Base 2000

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

I would break this into manageable projects, do the timing belt first,
leave the dipstick loose to allow the crankcase pressure to vent off for now.
Then do the pcv system.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I’ve had an early INA tensioner failure which wiped out my new valvejob at 260k.

It isn’t the end of the engine,andat250k, stem seals are worth doing if you want another 100k out of the engine ,anyway
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93SCMax
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Post by 93SCMax »

I'd be concerned with the internals of your engine based on the crud on your oil cap. You are already @ 286k miles with blow-by. Maybe an engine flush and PCV job should be 1st in line?

...you are going to need to spend some $ and effort to keep her running reliably.

Jonboy74
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Post by Jonboy74 »

93SCMax wrote: 22 Aug 2022, 05:05 I'd be concerned with the internals of your engine based on the crud on your oil cap. You are already @ 286k miles with blow-by. Maybe an engine flush and PCV job should be 1st in line?

...you are going to need to spend some $ and effort to keep her running reliably.
What exactly do you mean by "engine flush"?

Yeah, I really like this car, and would rather spend $1-2k on it than to get a "new" one. PCV has been on my mind for some time, I just haven't gotten to it yet.

Right now I'm on the fence as to whether I want to take on the Timing Belt and Cam seals or pay my indie shop...because it looks like I might need to buy about $200-300 worth of tools specific to doing the timing belt and cam seals.

Thanks,

Jonboy

Jonboy74
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Post by Jonboy74 »

abscate wrote: 22 Aug 2022, 04:35 I’ve had an early INA tensioner failure which wiped out my new valvejob at 260k.

It isn’t the end of the engine,andat250k, stem seals are worth doing if you want another 100k out of the engine ,anyway
LOL, wait - you're saying (along with everything else), I need to do Valve Stem Seals now? or if my TB jumps the shark and tears things up that it wouldn't be the end of the world as we know it? :-D

Goodnight Elizabeth!

Jonboy

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