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What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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abscate
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by abscate »

How anyone can remove a wheel bearing on a car with the knuckle on escapes me completely.
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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

abscate wrote: 29 Aug 2022, 03:02 How anyone can remove a wheel bearing on a car with the knuckle on escapes me completely.
That's how I do it! Makes it way easier and quicker and you don't have to disturb the ball joint.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

yeh but the balljoint was so bad it had to come off anyway, so I was in for a dollar.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

success, took several attempts, trick was to use a big nut for leverage and more surface area for the weld.


a3inverter
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Post by a3inverter »

That's how I did it recently too! Just needed the right set of wobble extensions from what I remember.

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Post by a3inverter »

Replaced the plastic hinge on the fuel filler door and put new spark plugs (OE Volvo) in yesterday. Nice easy job. Plugs looked worn but no signs of bad stuff going on @179k miles. Based on the PO's records, they (OE Volvo) were last replaced @ 115k. The plastic loom for one of the plugs needed a few wraps of electrical tape and also took the opportunity to clean up the engine covers with soap and water. In the last couple months the CEL has lit due to the evap system (I'm forgetting the code) and I tweak of the gas cap has solved it.

Love how the fuel filler door opens with crispness now!

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

Muffler was still too loud at the flange joint between the cat and resonator, I decided to pull the whole system in one piece and got the car raised up.
On the off chance I decided to tighten the bolts on the flange joint , it did tighten up enough to stop the leak. So thats solved...again.

I found a slight phhhffft at the top of the flex joint but its not bad enough to bother with yet.
To fix that I'd still have the drop the system in one piece and build a wooden jig to make sure the system stays aligned when the flex section is welded in. Thats for another day.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I’ve become a huge fan of the band clamps that close with two 14 mm bolts and surround the joint with metal. If you have a little mismatch in pipe size you can make the smaller one with muffler Wrap tape. Roll under with the impact gun and zip zip, muffler connected
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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

abscate wrote: 02 Sep 2022, 05:19 I’ve become a huge fan of the band clamps that close with two 14 mm bolts and surround the joint with metal. If you have a little mismatch in pipe size you can make the smaller one with muffler Wrap tape. Roll under with the impact gun and zip zip, muffler connected
These band clamps come in all diameters and are also available with different sizes on the ends. I made dual exhaust system for my Ford truck using these since I did not want to take to a welder.

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The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.

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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

I went to band camp once......oh..
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

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