The Resurrection of Ekaterina 1999 S70 AWD silver Topic is solved

[abscate]

Started a new thread but it turns out jimmy57. Who else? Documented the tank drop method back in 2012.

Since my driveshaft is already out and my exhaust is SS band clamped and flange clamped, it’s a cinch to give that a go/

[scot850]

With this process I would do this as it is a little harder than the hole cutting method but gives better access to running the cables afterwards as well as being able to check those fuel lines while in there!

Once again we have jimmy57 to thanks for his wisdom!

Neil.

[rrres]

When I replaced the fuel pump on my 99 v70xc, I did the partial-tank-drop using Robert's video as guidance. I dropped the tank three times in one weekend because of f' ups and overlooking things. The first time took me about 12 hours...then it it got 50% quicker each try. Have plenty of jacks. Have a couple of bottle jacks to lift and tweak things when needed. The bottle jacks when used along 1x lumber will help push the tank down and lift other suspension stuff. I also had to use my extra long screwdriver to fish and maneuver the cable...it will get stuck at the FPR clip and other clips. It seems like most instructions will give you the general plan on how to do the job but it is all about the detail that will either make the repair a struggle or not. Repairs on my Toyota Corolla and former Jeep were very straight forward. Being a new Volvo owner, I've noticed that there's a lot of "special tricks" and maneuvers that need to be done when working on one.

[YV1LW]

@abscate

I have searched until my eyes bleed but I can't come up with the 2012 post from @jimmy57 that reviews the process for dropping the rear subframe.

Do you have the link that you can post for those who are search challenged?

Thanks!!

[abscate]

I bumped it and link here..

viewtopic.php?t=48133

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Wrap up. The trick of buying two 30 cm m12 threaded rods from McMaster Carr and using them as guides made the full axle drop and install only a 2 hour affair.

I eliminated all the fuel hose from my tank while down except the bridges between CuNiForm and components. Trying to eliminate stuff for critter munchies, got all hose lengths down to 5 cm or so, double oetiker

Got the fuel gaiter installed. You have to twist the pipe on the tank hard to ccw direction looking down from rear. A small change here of a cm position on the rotation will move the fuel fill gaiter 10-15 cm where it won’t fit back on the body


Took her on her first 100 mile trip away from home. 27 mpg and smooth as silk. Monitors finally went ready so I can inspect her.

Obligatory Beetle and my Favourite Car Parts place

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Picture gallery of repairs for reference.

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Successful nySI , the Kat is on the prowl

Wrapping up.

Notes on VC removal

Both the VC twisty part has to be uncoupled from the diff, 6 mm internal hex screws, then the housing has to be undone from the case, 4x m10 14mm hex flange bolts

Good to have a helper on the wheel, turning it and holding it while you access each 6mm hex through the opening in the bottom

Bottom two m10s are easy. Top left is easier with exhaust removed , which you need to do to drop tank anyway

Top right can be reached direct over top of the housing with a socket and bout 30 cm of extensions

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Update November 2022

I got 5000 miles on her with great driveability, then the high pressure supply side blew off at my NiCopp hose and left me stranded. I got her towed to a great independent in Stony Brook, Munch Auto, and got lucky with a Swedish car guy who knew P80 Volvo

5 hours to drop axle and repair, at $110 an hour

He complimented me on my axle work but taught me two new things:

Roughen the NiCopp with a file to help the rubber bite into it

With a flare tool, put a small flare on the end to clamp and secure the rubber.

Gotta say it was a great deal to trade $500 for a 3 hour dolly tow back to Albany plus wrestling that axle gorilla in the driveway

[abscate]

Update April 2023
Just turned 150,000 miles on the Kat , she mostly prowls local on Long Island