Which older volvo do you recommend? [merged]

[abscate]

A nice 1999 AWD in place of a Cilice makes one closer to the Swedish Gods….

[erikv11]

Until anything at all breaks on the AWD, which will happen soon, and you find yourself much, much closer to Swedish hell.

[scot850]

I think abscate has been there and back already! He has broken the fear the AWD brings and has overcome 2 of the biggest issues in the fuel pump and the fuel lines. Once you get past those 2 things and just getting the subframe bolts out not once but twice(!), then you just have to worry about some of the rear bushes that are NLA, the rear brake dust plates and the NLA eccentric bolts then you have no worries!!

Neil

[msloan]

And I am not doing any of that!
What would be considered reasonable mileage on the v70 engines? What is there expected life, all things being equal?

[erikv11]

If reasonably cared for (big if there ...) then it's fair to assume engine is good to about 400k but there will be other maintenance of course.

If engine was run on low octane fuels then maybe it doesn't run as long before burning an exhaust valve.

[June]

150K to 200K with typical lack of service ie long oil change time/miles. Also look for genuine Volvo coolant as according to the "Burnt valve database on MVS" White 5 cylinder engines engines using aftermarket coolant are more apt to have valve trouble. Volvo coolant dries more crusty than standard coolant. I suspect the Volvo coolant has a additive built in similar to the separate Subaru coolant additive required by Subaru. As far as the coolant and burnt valve issue, I have read on MVS that it may have a additive to prevent hot spots. Who really knows...

With excellent service history I expect 500K. I believe my White engine in my S80 will hit a million miles without issue. I spare no expense like changing the oil 3very 3months or 3K miles. Using only dealership parts like the water pump during timing belt service. Realize these engines are more likely ruined by jumping timing than anything else. The timing belt runs the water pump. Even the serpentine belt can take out the timing belt in turn seriously damaging the engine. Just be aware the White block engines are not as forgiving as the Red block engines.

Be sure to thoroughly inspect the engine before you start it. Look under cap for sludge. Theh get the transmission properly warmed up to be certain that it doesn't have shifting issues hot. Obviously do a glove test. On a turbo put it in gear and power brake it at 2000 rpm to be sure glove doesn't inflate. The PCV has two circuits. Reving the engine in park won't activate turbo boost pressure. I added photos of my S80 to show how things should look on a White block. Glove pictured marked 2000 rpm is in drive not park. Glove marked idle, transmission is in park. Also floor the car from stop during test drive completely winding out first gear to second and continue if you can through second if possible. Look for a hop type vibration. If it hops it has worn CV joints Also in high gear at 50ish lightly accelerate looking for vibration. That too indicates bad axles. If axles are bad or replaced recently the car likely needs new mounts as sagging mounts cause axles to prematurely fail. Hope this helps, June

[msloan]

I've never heard of the "glove test". What exactly is it telling you?

[erikv11]

Glove test tells you if the PCV system can pull vacuum like it is supposed to. If fit can't, then either the rings are bad and there is blowby from the cylinders, and/or the PCV is clogged due to neglect. Both are bad signs for long-term engine health.

[msloan]

cool! Thanks!

[msloan]

I think I'm going to stay with the basic RWD vehicle. Like the 240. I think that includes the 740. Are there any others in the 98-2005 era?