Intercooler weep and wet turbo repair parts list needed

[foggydogg]

Should I replace the intercooler rubber hoses and clamps shown in the linked diagram? How can I tell if they should be replaced? Are they a long-term wear items like the cooling and PCV hoses?

The hoses look really tired though!

Which hoses are you referring to and what makes them look tired? The pictured lower intercooler hose is coated with oil so I'm not sure how it looks underneath. The A/C line below it, specifically the rubber/metal union, is the worst thing I've found, but I'll tackle that later.

I'm with you, leave the charge air stuff alone and address it in phase two. Unless that bottom hose is marshmallow squishy or has a visible hole, I would just PB the clamps and leave it. You may get frisky and want to put a silicone set on it later anyway.
The only thing I saw in the underpics that will need attention at some point is the turbo coolant hose, showing a bit of a bulge. The single screw clamp and double (!) Oetiker clamps might mean somebody was there before. That hose can be a bit of a...challenge.

[scot850]

The lower intercooler hose looks well perished. If you remove it to clean it, you may want to replace the hose clamps, but I think you will find the hose has gone really squishy and soft so on the way to splitting. If it turns out to still have some stiffness to it then leave well alone.

Yes the AC line crimp looks badly corroded, but unless it is leaking I would maybe try to clean and treat the rust and coat with Por-15 or similar paint to prolong it's life. No point spending money needlessly.

Neil.

[FireFox31]

I just did the glove test and it passed. The hose from the oil trap to the engine top had a separation which seemed intentional, explaining the oil staining around that area. Though the test passed, I will replace the oil trap and its hoses. I'll be in there to replace alternator, the Cyber Monday sale at Volvo is great, and hausmeister is right that they may have age related failure even if not clogged.

Oil was splashing around beneath the filler cap. Must be a symptom of the seriously overfilled oil. The dipstick shows the level is at the lowest bend on the stick, way above maximum. Maybe this contributed to the intercooler weeping. I will change the oil immediately.

The lower intercooler hose looks well perished. If you remove it to clean it, you may want to replace the hose clamps, but I think you will find the hose has gone really squishy and soft so on the way to splitting. If it turns out to still have some stiffness to it then leave well alone.

Thanks, I will replace it. It might have had oil soaking inside it for years, in case that could hurt it. For $45, it's easy enough to swap while I'm cleaning up the intercooler. I will leave the remaining intercooler hoses alone.

I always thought hoses for coolant and other things should be rather soft. I thought they cracked when they got too firm like I've seen on PCV systems. The coolant hoses feel reasonably soft, show no cracks, and have minimal bulging. I'll compare the existing and new lower intercooler hoses, and compare the coolant hoses to my 2000 V70 which got new ones last year.

Your Oil lines though are extremely rusty...

To me, they look solid with no flaking or pitting. I've seen much worse. Still, I've made a note and will check the price for new ones. I will replace that bulging, double Oetiker rubber hose as foggy mentioned.

Thanks again for the input. Let's hope I can get all of these parts ordered during this great Cyber Monday sale.

[hausmeister]

Yeah, I don't think this hose should come apart as on above pic. I remember this being one unit.

Charge air piping is difficult to recommend. It will be okay until it fails (spectacularly). Might have small leaks that you won't notice but will work until it doesn't anymore.

Considering the rusty lines we saw I'd say your car could use some more oil-leaks for self preservation

[scot850]

Hausmeister is right in that the hose is a rubber welded part at that join. The hose should be one continuous pipe from catch can to the top of the head. Never seen a Volvo one fail, but have seen aftermarket ones fail.

Neil.

[FireFox31]

Thanks again for all of the input. I'll probably post in here as I make progress on the evaluation and cleaning of these turbo components.

Considering the rusty lines we saw I'd say your car could use some more oil-leaks for self preservation

This is very true. My 2000 NA had fluid covering half of its transmission valve body cover. Once I cleaned it, the body was free from little rust pits and the screws looked great, compared to the exposed screws being rather rusted.

[BlackBart]

...I'd say your car could use some more oil-leaks for self preservation

This is how the Italians do rustproofing.

[foggydogg]

Should I replace the intercooler rubber hoses and clamps shown in the linked diagram? How can I tell if they should be replaced? Are they a long-term wear items like the cooling and PCV hoses?

The hoses look really tired though!

Which hoses are you referring to and what makes them look tired? The pictured lower intercooler hose is coated with oil so I'm not sure how it looks underneath. The A/C line below it, specifically the rubber/metal union, is the worst thing I've found, but I'll tackle that later.

I'm with you, leave the charge air stuff alone and address it in phase two. Unless that bottom hose is marshmallow squishy or has a visible hole, I would just PB the clamps and leave it. You may get frisky and want to put a silicone set on it later anyway.
The only thing I saw in the underpics that will need attention at some point is the turbo coolant hose, showing a bit of a bulge. The single screw clamp and double (!) Oetiker clamps might mean somebody was there before. That hose can be a bit of a...challenge.

As everybody's friend Robert likes to say, the coolant hoses on the back of the engine ( 31439471 ) and on the turbo ( 6842190 ) should be Blue Box Volvo items. Oetiker optional, but :
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/hose-c ... r-52545k45