1999 S70 GLT winter car aquistion

[abscate]

The piston has to be pushed all the way in to install new pads, too. I use two box end wrenches as levers but finger pressure should work. If it doesn’t, the piston is seizing

[454cid]

The piston has to be pushed all the way in to install new pads, too. I use two box end wrenches as levers but finger pressure should work. If it doesn’t, the piston is seizing

Yes, I found that out after the pads were in, but I couldn't get it over the rotor. I used a c-clamp. The boxend wrenches sounds like a good idea, since the back of the caliper doesn't provide a flat area for the c-clamp.

I wonder if having the piston in all the way, would have helped me get those clips on the back in along with the ears lined up.

This is the first time I've ever had a brake hose that didn't attach to the caliper with a banjo bolt and copper washers/gaskets. Should I have put thread sealer on the end that threads into the caliper? I've looked at the Volvo manual, but didn't find anything.

I'm noticing the Akebono outer pad isn't sweeping the rotor as close to the edge as the Textar pads do. I'm so sick of these brakes. I'm struggling every step of the way, and I don't know why. Everything is just enough different that everything I know seems not to apply.

[scot850]

I have never used sealing of any sort on the threads of the brake hoses. The thread they have should be self sealing.

I have a cheap tool which is basically a threaded rod through a piece of plate and a tip on the thread to fit into the hollow of the piston. I find it a little short, but put a small socket in the piston which allows me to fully compress the piston. The other option is if there is fluid in is to crack the piston slightly open to stop the fluid hydro locking the piston preventing it being pushed home.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/disc-br ... 0002990006

You get fancier ones but at the equivalent of $6.50 US maybe worth considering for the future. I have used large pipe/adjustable pliers in the past too before I got this tool.

If the piston is fully home it should be just above the level of the caliper body by a few millimeters. With the pad fitted and fully home on the piston side the outer pad can be held in place and the whole assembly slipped over the rotor. If you are using old rotors, the rust on the edge may have built up enough to make this a challenge as it is neat in terms of space.

There is the guide on MVS to help:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/repla ... iscs-pads/

or this video:



Neil.

[454cid]

I have never used sealing of any sort on the threads of the brake hoses. The thread they have should be self sealing.

That's what I thought, and hoped, but I woke up last night still stressing over the whole thing in general. That was one thing that didn't even cross my mind until later, and I thought I would check. I did look at the old one this afternoon, and it didn't look to have any trace of a sealant, either. Thanks for confirming.

I have a cheap tool which is basically a threaded rod through a piece of plate and a tip on the thread to fit into the hollow of the piston. I find it a little short, but put a small socket in the piston which allows me to fully compress the piston. The other option is if there is fluid in is to crack the piston slightly open to stop the fluid hydro locking the piston preventing it being pushed home.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/disc-br ... 0002990006

I've seen those and always thought of them as unnecessary, cheaply made, tools that only did one job. However, I'm seeing that maybe I was in error. The C-clamp I typically use is unwieldy, and in the case of the Volvo calipers doesn't fit well. I think I may go ahead and buy the piston compressor.

You get fancier ones but at the equivalent of $6.50 US maybe worth considering for the future. I have used large pipe/adjustable pliers in the past too before I got this tool.

I really should get the large pliers too. When I did the serpentine belt on the 850 I used very large pliers that my uncle owns on the tensionor...didn't even mar it.

If the piston is fully home it should be just above the level of the caliper body by a few millimeters. With the pad fitted and fully home on the piston side the outer pad can be held in place and the whole assembly slipped over the rotor. If you are using old rotors, the rust on the edge may have built up enough to make this a challenge as it is neat in terms of space.

I did have to fiddle with it a bit today, doing the other side (just new matching pads) but it went much smoother. I did compare the two brands of pads, and the Textars are simply a bit wider, hence the fuller swept area. The Akebono pads don't go to the outer edge of the rotor, so I will get a ridge now.

There is the guide on MVS to help:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/repla ... iscs-pads/

or this video:

Thanks, I'll take a look. Eventually I'll be doing the brakes on the 850... just not as winter is ramping up.

[scot850]

Good luck with that when the time comes!

Neil

[454cid]

So, I decided to take the passenger side front brake apart again. The Akebono brake pads are slightly narrower than the Textar pads, but the driver's side sweeps the rotor to the edge, and the passenger side does not. I thought maybe I had something not quite right. I bought a 7mm Allen socket so I could leave the bracket on the knuckle, and just pull the caliper itself. As best as I can figure the difference in rotor sweep is differences in manufacturing from side to side and is fine.

I bled the brakes, and here's where the fun began. The bleeder on the passenger side was leaking around the the threads. All I can figure is that I must have gotten some debris in there, when I pulled the piston, or maybe the bleeder screw needs to be replaced. I "fixed" it by putting some Mega-Loc on the threads. It seems to be holding. I'll check it a few more times. I'm still getting a side to side temp difference of at least 20F, which I will continue to monitor.

I'm ready to move on from brakes.