No Crank No Start, click of solenoid is heard and 'starting in progress' displayed in dash.
My wife's 2015 XC60 suddenly in a no crank no start situation. Around 130k miles with many short trips, so went ahead and replaced the starter motor, no luck.
Battery is < 1 year old, cleaned terminals and connectors, car started and continued to start fine for 2 days, then, back to the same issue.
I have fully charged the battery, checked voltage drop around terminals, everything looks good (0V drop), fuse looks good. I'm not sure which relay to check (can't seem to find this documented anywhere).
I did check voltage drop from battery to both low and high power connections on the starter, both show 12V+, however, I'm not sure if this is expected until the starter is engaged?
At this point, anyone that can point me to resources or suggestions of next steps would be appreciated. I typically avoid braving electrical diagnosis, but this seems like it has to be something simple...
2015 XC60 3.2L - No Crank No Start
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
No-crank, no-start Diagnostic Procedure
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Vova585
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Question 1- do you still have the old starter motor? If yes- get it tested by qualified shop and see if it is works perfect to begin with.
Question 2- where you bought your new starter from? If it was from advance auto or auto zone don't be surprised if they don't work out of the box.
You can try to manually turn the engine and see if it turns vs has some internal issue preventing it from turning(doubt that). You can always try to use a screwdriver method to engage the starter(to see if it is working) there will be ton of sparks and your screw driver will not be happy...
You can also try to measure voltage drop on the battery when car tries to start(voltage the it shows now might be ok,but capacity lost). Or try to start the car with good battery charger connected or with booster cables connected to running car(please negative to the cars ground and not to negative baterry post and leave it connected for 5min before attempting to start). You mentioned frequent low millage trips so baterry might be toast. I would also check the engine ground cable to make sure there is no corrosion or damage.
Hope helps a little.
Question 2- where you bought your new starter from? If it was from advance auto or auto zone don't be surprised if they don't work out of the box.
You can try to manually turn the engine and see if it turns vs has some internal issue preventing it from turning(doubt that). You can always try to use a screwdriver method to engage the starter(to see if it is working) there will be ton of sparks and your screw driver will not be happy...
You can also try to measure voltage drop on the battery when car tries to start(voltage the it shows now might be ok,but capacity lost). Or try to start the car with good battery charger connected or with booster cables connected to running car(please negative to the cars ground and not to negative baterry post and leave it connected for 5min before attempting to start). You mentioned frequent low millage trips so baterry might be toast. I would also check the engine ground cable to make sure there is no corrosion or damage.
Hope helps a little.
- dvlchd3
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Update: I believe I found the issues, there is apparently an inline fuse on the starter cable, it is on the side of the battery off the positive side, kind of hard to see. Have 12V before the fuse, 0 after.
Stupidly expensive part (~$90 currently) for just a cable and fuse, but here's the part # for my car: 31376602. Hope this helps anyone who might have a similar issue.
It's still unclear why the car started again for a bit, my only guess is I removed/installed/jiggled the positive battery connector a few times, perhaps it was enough wiggling to make the fuse work again...
Also, I bench tested the old starter, engages cleanly, seems to be perfectly fine.
For those in a similar no-crank, no-start, here's the procedure I'd follow in the future:
1. Battery - is it charged/good, if not could be battery or alternator.
2. Check for voltage drop between terminal->connector, terminal->starter wire nut (side of battery), terminal->after starter wire fuse -- this will rule out the inline fuse/battery connection issues.
3. Check voltage at starter, both the solenoid and main line should have 12V. Try to start and see if there's significant drop. Should check post first -> nut -> lead (could just be a loose/rusty connection here).
4. Check for bad block ground - measure voltage from negative battery terminal to the block, try to start--this should always be 0, if you ever see voltage here, you are completing the circuit and the block ground wire is bad/rusty/loose.
5. Finally, replace the starter, it's probably that.
Stupidly expensive part (~$90 currently) for just a cable and fuse, but here's the part # for my car: 31376602. Hope this helps anyone who might have a similar issue.
It's still unclear why the car started again for a bit, my only guess is I removed/installed/jiggled the positive battery connector a few times, perhaps it was enough wiggling to make the fuse work again...
Also, I bench tested the old starter, engages cleanly, seems to be perfectly fine.
For those in a similar no-crank, no-start, here's the procedure I'd follow in the future:
1. Battery - is it charged/good, if not could be battery or alternator.
2. Check for voltage drop between terminal->connector, terminal->starter wire nut (side of battery), terminal->after starter wire fuse -- this will rule out the inline fuse/battery connection issues.
3. Check voltage at starter, both the solenoid and main line should have 12V. Try to start and see if there's significant drop. Should check post first -> nut -> lead (could just be a loose/rusty connection here).
4. Check for bad block ground - measure voltage from negative battery terminal to the block, try to start--this should always be 0, if you ever see voltage here, you are completing the circuit and the block ground wire is bad/rusty/loose.
5. Finally, replace the starter, it's probably that.
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Vova585
- Posts: 558
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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... o-31376602
Found the video with this issue.
Great many thanks for posting the answer on what the problem was.
I think this issue deserves to be added to repair list
- matthew1
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Agreed, and added.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
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Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

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