96 R manual swap: the hard way?

[Clemens]

I finally have all parts together to manual swap my 96R.
ECU, RClutch, new clutch cylinders, modified ECU, a M56 with new bearings and a Quaife.
While I'm at it I want to drop the oil pan and get new oil pickup o-rings.
I also want to do the water pump and timing belt everything.

Now, would it be wiser to just drop the subframe and keep the motor in the car or should I drop the motor with the subframe?

The main difference seems to be having to mess with the wiring harness, the AC lines and the exhaust manifold when dropping the motor, at the same time having better access to the transmission and the TB and water pump.

[abscate]

I don’t think you can pull the trans off with the engine up in the subframe, it has to come down for clearance

[Clemens]

I think I was not clear on my plan:
I'm pretty sure the subframe has to come off. I'm just wondering if it is possible to support the motor from the top with a brace and chains so that it tilts down to the driver's side. that way I could leave fuel lines, AC lines, electrical wiring and the exhaust attached.

[abscate]

I dropped my P2 engine that way to do the clutch in 2018. Did not disconnect AC, did disconnect heater hoses

[Clemens]

Thank you for reminding me of the heater hoses. I was just thinking of the radiator hoses.

[abscate]

Watch that fuel line too..there is a nice disconnect down there , easy to remove , though,

[polskamafia mjl]

...
I'm pretty sure the subframe has to come off.

You don't have to drop the subframe, you can go through the top. So it's a personal choice based on what tools you have on hand.

...
I'm just wondering if it is possible to support the motor from the top with a brace and chains so that it tilts down to the driver's side.

Yes it's possible to do this with a brace such as this: https://www.vevor.com/engine-hoists-sta ... 0e654863.1.

[Chuck W]

You can disconnect the wiring harness at the ECU box. Remove the two engine side parts of the ECM/TCM connectors and undo the ground under the pass light. Then it's just remove the fan and FI relays, etc from the radiator shroud and pull it all with the engine/trans.






Then it's a good time to pull out all of the auto trans wiring.



(The AC was left in the car, all connected)

I've done a clutch R&R on a manual leaving everything in and supporting it from above while dropping out the K-member. I don't have an issue with doing it that way again. For extra involved work, like what you have planned, to me it's easier/better to have it all out and on a stand or bench.

[Clemens]

Alright, since I opened the topic, I might as well close it.

I am done, my 96 R now has a quaifed up M56H 4.0 and 270 hp. It is scary fast and torquey compared to before. If feels 50% more powerful than my 94 T5M.

Since a buddy of mine who is a mechanic specializing on race car builds could be convinced that this is something he always wanted to do (which of course isn't true) we tried to go the easiest route by his imagination:

We supported the motor from above, removed the driveshafts, unbolted the subframe (steering rack was left connected to the steering column). Within 2 hours the AT was out. We replaced the RMS, all 4 subframe bushings and cleaned the subframe. We mounted the clutch and M56 and then reconnected everything the following day.
Since the motor was left in it's original position we didn't have to drain any fluids except for the ATF and didn't need to unhook any lines or hoses.

For most everything unclear prior and during the swap polskamafija's great writeup was very handy.

[polskamafia mjl]

Aw-shucks.