What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[bmdubya1198]

Dropped #3 coil on Shagg about 5 miles from old home port at end of 200 mile trip. Replaced in 5 minutes with UBG stash. Something to be said for driving a platform of cars and getting familiar with the failures.

Almost couldn’t feel rough running above 2000 rpm but shake at idle

It feels good being able to diagnose a problem on your car in a matter of seconds to minutes. It pays off to be familiar with them!

[454cid]

Dropped #3 coil on Shagg about 5 miles from old home port at end of 200 mile trip. Replaced in 5 minutes with UBG stash. Something to be said for driving a platform of cars and getting familiar with the failures.

Almost couldn’t feel rough running above 2000 rpm but shake at idle

I have not had issues with coils. Do they start to go after a certain mileage? My S70 is still under 100K miles.

[CIK7]

My repaste with rtv of the sunroof a few days ago was worthless. Last eve and this morning, I worked on the sunroof seal on the donor car. I used N_D's step-by-step here viewtopic.php?t=70515&hilit=sunroof+repair. I accidentally installed seal back to front with the split in front. Just a couple hours ago I tested fitment on donor car then swapped the sunroof on ol' Rotten Tomato. I have an extra sunroof now. I tested leakage on sunroof, sunroof drain, and windshield. As far as I can tell, it was a pass.

I also replaced the spark plugs and installed a 'cooler' coolant thermostat with new seal. I think Volvo oem is 192F or 198F, but I chose a 180F Gates. The old thermostat was garbage. Only 1 year and the gasket was already a bit eaten.

The computer will be confused by the low coolant temp. It really is designed to run best with the stock thermostat.

Will it cause certain problems?

[yanga001]

My repaste with rtv of the sunroof a few days ago was worthless. Last eve and this morning, I worked on the sunroof seal on the donor car. I used N_D's step-by-step here viewtopic.php?t=70515&hilit=sunroof+repair. I accidentally installed seal back to front with the split in front. Just a couple hours ago I tested fitment on donor car then swapped the sunroof on ol' Rotten Tomato. I have an extra sunroof now. I tested leakage on sunroof, sunroof drain, and windshield. As far as I can tell, it was a pass.

I also replaced the spark plugs and installed a 'cooler' coolant thermostat with new seal. I think Volvo oem is 192F or 198F, but I chose a 180F Gates. The old thermostat was garbage. Only 1 year and the gasket was already a bit eaten.

The computer will be confused by the low coolant temp. It really is designed to run best with the stock thermostat.

Will it cause certain problems?

Not sure how much i buy of this as its about a 10C difference in temperatures, and the purpose of the thermostat is to allow fluids to flow through the radiator. Running at 82 v2 92 C should not make the biggest difference in the world as the car will get up to temperature regardless. All that will happen is it will likely not see as high a maximum temperature. I religiously monitored coolant temperature once when my fluids froze due to a series of unfortunate events. What i noted was in the winter it would heat up and then oscillate between 104C and 92C. At 104C read by my temperature sensor it seemed the thermostat opened allowing full flow which cooled the engine down (sub -10- -20C at the time of these tests).

Now with this lower thermostat you have 2 cases, open before fan kicks on and open after fan kicks on. Prior to this the thermostats do not do really anything as it is closed and getting the engine up to temp.

When open, we know it will open earlier, however coolant flowing through a radiator is not what really cools the engine. Its airflow. Your fan will still activate at the same rated temperature, the only difference being you will have full flow earlier so your car may take longer to get up to temperature while driving (this is theoretical as i am assuming at highway speeds the cooling effect of wind will cool the engine a bit more then if the engine were to heat up longer. More energy will be lost to wind over the duration of the warmup cycle).

When open and fans on then there will be no discernable difference from what i gather. Your ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor) controls when the cooling fan engages. All the thermostat does is regulate water flow. Your engine will still get up to the same temperature required to trigger the fan and will heat up nicely.

I ran a non OEM thermostat for a long time unknowingly and then ran a stock volvo one in my late v70. Noted no discernable difference in running. The non oem may have warmed up faster through rose coloured glasses, however the warm up cycles and graphs on my OBD2 were the same.

This was probably a really long way of saying no do not worry.

On a side note I am itching to dig my hands into a new car or engine

Hoping to see some cars next week and hear back from my mechanic.

[abscate]

Well, coil was not problem on Shagg.

No compression in #3

Point of order. You can drive 55-60 to NYC then Long Island on 4 cylinders at 25mpg with fuel injector plug pulled

Shagg has served well

[BlackBart]

oh no...

[foggydogg]

Well, coil was not problem on Shagg.

No compression in #3

Point of order. You can drive 55-60 to NYC then Long Island on 4 cylinders at 25mpg with fuel injector plug pulled

Shagg has served well

Current hypothesis ? Burnt valve ?

[abscate]

Pretty sure it’s a valve. Felt it give on the highway at 2200 rpm with ever so slight vibration. Chuffs at idle.

P0303 pended right away

Coil, plug swap,did not help. Compression test showed 0 psi

[scot850]

That is disappointing. Especially if you are using 91 on highway driving, but it may come down to how much of both were in the tank. Shagg is an NA isn't it? Even more unusual. Maybe a combo of valve guide seals failing with build up of carbon and running hot in the combustion chambers. Hopefully just a valve and not bent valves or worn guides.

Neil.

[foggydogg]

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"OFF WITH HER HEAD!"