Can I Test My ECM?

[Oka]

Audew Jumper.JPG (3.51 KiB) Viewed 247 times

Went to jump start the 2005 XC90, V8, connected the jumper; the positive to the positive connector next to the fuse box in the under the hood, and the negative to the strut stud. This is how I have always jump started cars, with this jumper. This time around, as soon as I connected the negative, I heard a "chukuum", and I immediately let go without any more connection. The only thought that came to mind was that my ECM got fried. When this happened, the jumper was at 98%; it went down to 0%. That is serious !!!

Isn't my connection the right way to jump start a car? I have been jump starting cars with this unit a lot and in the same format. Checked and the manual specifies connection the negative to the engine frame, if using a donor car.
What did I do wrong?

There should be a way I can at least test mine to confirm it is the ECM, any DIY test I can do? A replacement would be $728.

Cheers

[chitownV]

The ECM shouldn’t be active until you turn the key. Double check your jump starter as it sounds like its internal fusible link burned out or an internal fault; this can happen as the starter packs are made with a certain price point.

Have you tried connecting a battery charger, using regular jumper cables, or another jump starter pack?

[Oka]

The ECM shouldn’t be active until you turn the key. Double check your jump starter as it sounds like its internal fusible link burned out or an internal fault; this can happen as the starter packs are made with a certain price point.

Have you tried connecting a battery charger, using regular jumper cables, or another jump starter pack?

Your first line made me think of just putting back the charged batter and check the car, just for the fun of it. I did, with the key in the number 2 position, bam, I heard a little click saw the security light come on. I thought it was a joke. I went in, turned the key and it started. I was so excited I was besides myself. Thank you so much for your directions, you just saved me $728. I really appreciate your thoughts. I asked the ECM people how I can test the ECM to make sure it is culprit. I have to send it to them to test for me, which is not cheap for me from Anchorage, Alaska.

In the past, I brought up the style of replacing the battery with the key in the number 2 position. I saw it in one my the Volvo manuals. I have always done so, but not when this issue happened to me.

Now, in the manual, it only shows the process of jump starting the car with a donor car, but not with a battery pack. I have always connected the negative clamp to the strut stud. Is that wrong instead of on the engine block?

I see you live in Maryland. Looking at your signature, you use Mobil 1, 0W-40; is that all seasons? You have winter season there also, right? Just curious.

Also what would you mean by having a "lead foot" with respect to the oil weight you use? What has speed got to do with your oil type.
See, I never stop learning about things.

Thanks

[chitownV]

Glad you figured out the issue and it wasn’t an expensive ECM.

Yes, in Maryland and used to live in Chicago. I use 0W-40 year round and it does very well. My lead foot is how hard I push the pedal, thus how hard I push the engine, and I don’t consume oil at my high mileage.

You can learn more about A3/B4 oils and how they do very well in the XC90 engines.
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/oil- ... st-8046070

[Oka]

Glad you figured out the issue and it wasn’t an expensive ECM.

Yes, in Maryland and used to live in Chicago. I use 0W-40 year round and it does very well. My lead foot is how hard I push the pedal, thus how hard I push the engine, and I don’t consume oil at my high mileage.

You can learn more about A3/B4 oils and how they do very well in the XC90 engines.
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/oil- ... st-8046070

Thanks!