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Should I even bother with the rear break line? 06 s60

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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chris11211
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Should I even bother with the rear break line? 06 s60

Post by chris11211 »

I managed to change the front brake lines because one of them was leaking, and at 17 years old wow. However the rears are obviously not easy, and there is no company such as 1a auto or FCP that has any videos on changing those lines. Jay from FCP didn't even mention it in his "complete brake refresh" video. It's only one random guy with an s80.

So it's obvious that nothing really happens in the rear except for hub and struts. Do I call it a day and let it be?

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

Due to inertia the lions share of braking is done by the front brakes anyway, I wouldn't bother.
The rear handbrake cables tend to stretch out long before the lines fail.

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Post by cn90 »

In the P80 and P2 cars, the Front brake hoses usually
crack around 100K-120K miles, simply bc the Front hoses
has to travel up/down and R/L.

In the Rear, there is much less movement, so the Rear hoses last 200K-250K easily.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

chris11211 wrote: 22 May 2023, 08:08 I managed to change the front brake lines because one of them was leaking, and at 17 years old wow. However the rears are obviously not easy, and there is no company such as 1a auto or FCP that has any videos on changing those lines. Jay from FCP didn't even mention it in his "complete brake refresh" video. It's only one random guy with an s80.

So it's obvious that nothing really happens in the rear except for hub and struts. Do I call it a day and let it be?
You can leave those rears alone as mentioned above.

You might have a 99 V70 moving into Brooklyn soon, neighbor

:D
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chris11211
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Post by chris11211 »

@abscate let me know. I could use a hand.

So I finally got around to bleeding the last brake line only to find out that it doesn't bleed unless with a buddy; not even a gravity bleed. I suspect it has to be a worn out brake hose, so it looks like I gotta do it anyways. Unless I'm full of myself. Thoughts?

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Post by jonesg »

chris11211 wrote: 30 May 2023, 23:38 @abscate let me know. I could use a hand.

So I finally got around to bleeding the last brake line only to find out that it doesn't bleed unless with a buddy; not even a gravity bleed. I suspect it has to be a worn out brake hose, so it looks like I gotta do it anyways. Unless I'm full of myself. Thoughts?
pump the brake pedal up, hold the pedal and brace the pedal against the seat with a stick, go and crack the bleeder open for a second and close again.
When it stops spitting its done. Top up the fluid level.

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Post by abscate »

I bleed in full flow. I loop the PVC hose up and over the spring, then down into the catch can (an FCP return can of course)

Now I pump slowly until I move 250 cc of fluid through so that I have fresh fluid in the lines and caliper. Tighten the new bleeder (just a nip) when done.

Send your old bleeder and brake fluid back for FCreditP.
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Post by chris11211 »

I did bleed the line before I posted.

I'm saying that this last line, rear passenger, didn't pass any fluid through the vacuum pump unless I used the buddy method and held the pedal down with a stick. I suspect that the rubber hose is getting compromised so it looks like I need to change it. Unless this is normal???

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Post by abscate »

Take the whole bleeder valve out and see if it’s better. I’ve never had hoses swell up but it can happen. It’s much more common for the bleeder to gum up or the caliper stick
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Post by chris11211 »

I actually replaced the bleeder but still no bleeding. Rotor spins freely and actuates when pressed on the pedal. If it's something internal in the caliper idk, but I'm leaning toward clogged line.

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