when 4C struts are dead

[erikv11]

No room in the garage until I install that blower motor!

Actually I'm on deadline with this one, repair has to be completed by July 19 for a car swap. Bought the hardware from Volvo to save a few bucks, unfortunately couldn't wait for the fourth of July sales. But it hasn't shipped yet from Lisle grrr ...

[abscate]

I hit a deadline last week, by driving the 12 minutes to the Volvo dealer in Smithtown without having to get on a highway. It’s nice having stuff close.

[enotslim]

An unappreciated issue is the force required to pull the suspension down. While VIDA instructions make the use of a ratchet & strap seem like an easy proposition; I found that anything less than 1.5" wide was just not able to create the pulling force required. I ended up with 1.5" strap and still found the use of a long 2x3 and a block to persuade the suspension down helped get more tension on the components.

I failed with the ratchet strap method until I realized that disconnecting the control arm stay laterally greatly decreased the force required. After that it was relatively easy (compared to before that when it was literally impossible).

[erikv11]

An unappreciated issue is the force required to pull the suspension down. While VIDA instructions make the use of a ratchet & strap seem like an easy proposition; I found that anything less than 1.5" wide was just not able to create the pulling force required. I ended up with 1.5" strap and still found the use of a long 2x3 and a block to persuade the suspension down helped get more tension on the components.

I failed with the ratchet strap method until I realized that disconnecting the control arm stay laterally greatly decreased the force required. After that it was relatively easy (compared to before that when it was literally impossible).

I also had trouble with the strap procedure with my XC70, though I did eventually get it to work combined with levering down the arm a bit when reinstalling the assembled shock tower.

Could you please ID in this diagram the fastener number(s) you disconnected (if they are shown?)? Thanks!

rear suspension S60R 06

rear suspension S60R 06.jpeg (71.84 KiB) Viewed 293 times

[enotslim]

An unappreciated issue is the force required to pull the suspension down. While VIDA instructions make the use of a ratchet & strap seem like an easy proposition; I found that anything less than 1.5" wide was just not able to create the pulling force required. I ended up with 1.5" strap and still found the use of a long 2x3 and a block to persuade the suspension down helped get more tension on the components.

I failed with the ratchet strap method until I realized that disconnecting the control arm stay laterally greatly decreased the force required. After that it was relatively easy (compared to before that when it was literally impossible).

I also had trouble with the strap procedure with my XC70, though I did eventually get it to work combined with levering down the arm a bit when reinstalling the assembled shock tower.

Could you please ID in this diagram the fastener number(s) you disconnected (if they are shown?)? Thanks!
rear suspension S60R 06.jpeg

The fastener I disconnected is 8 and 9 in the diagram in your post - connecting 7 and 10. The other end of what I'm calling the control arm stay (7 in the diagram) houses the eccentric bolt mechanism (4, 5 and 6) used for alignment, which is one reason not to disconnect that end and require a new alignment. Reattaching the fastener 8 and 9 required a lot of prying to align the stay with its connecting piece (10). (Might have gone back together more easily by disconnecting at 4/5/6 and accepting the need for a new alignment. I aligned anyway.) I found the names to be pretty confusing. 7 was sometimes referred to as the control arm, which it clearly is not. It looks like 10 is the "knuckle" and 3 is actually the control arm. "Control arm stay" seemed like the most sensible name for 7 but now I think this may also be confusing, since it does not connect to the control arm 3 (even though its function in alignment may be mediated through the control arm 3 with the knuckle 10 as an intermediary). Anyway, I had to take 7 out of the picture before the ratchet strap method would work. This was the only step that had previously prevented replacing the rear strut tower from being a one-person job (as abscate can attest).

[erikv11]

I'm working on the shocks today. Driver's side connector is released and shock tower is out. The connector was really stuck together due to a lot of dust/dirt film lining the plastic barrel where the male and female parts sit, I was surprised how much force it took to separate them. With the tab depressed by a screwdriver I used pliers to pull it out. Have some pics I'll post later.

On to the notorious passenger side connector.

... access to the connectors attached to the rear sub-frame from above the axle & disc brake. What was most helpful was an thin, 8"  long slot blade screwdriver to pull the locking tab toward the center of the connector assembly. ...

Your post has been super helpful, thanks!

Is this bit I quoted for the passenger side clip, and if so from what direction do you bring in the screwdriver? I don't see any access from the driver's side, which is the direction for access to the locking tab. I'm hoping to avoid breaking the connector off the mounting tab into the subframe.

From under the car near the Haldex unit you can reach up and put your fingers firmly on the connector tab. I'm wondering if I can fashion or find some kind of J shaped piece and use it to pull down the tab from there. Going to avoid working on it for a while now and see if a solution presents itself.

[erikv11]

Everything is out and shock towers refreshed, I'll wait until tomorrow or the next day to finish up.

I eventually found a reasonable way to get the connector unhooked for the passenger side 4C shock. This method leaves the connector attached to the subframe.

(1) Become very familiar with how the connectors work by hooking and unhooking the much-more-accessible connector on the driver's side.

(2) On the passenger side drop the shock tower down and rest it upright against the brake disk or whatever is convenient. Get a light source in on the passenger side wheel well and eyeball the connector tucked back on top of the subframe. You can barely see it but it's there.

(3) Lay on your back under the car, head up near the Haldex, feet sticking out the rear of the car. Right hand reach up the space in the center of the car and find the shock connector. With your fingers (no sight lines available) ID where the release tab needs to be pushed. This is not hard to reach but there isn't much purchase.

(4) Left hand get a 11" long nose pliers, I suggest a decent or better quality pliers not a cheap (and overly thick-bodied) one, and you can pretty easily get the snout of the pliers to the fingertips of your right hand. Use your fingertips to guide the pliers so they grab the angled edge of to the male connector. It is surprisingly easy to grab and hold the connecter this way.

(5) Left hand (pliers) gently wiggle the male connector back and forth etc, while right hand works the connector tab up and down until you hear it clicking when depressed. With a little effort the left hand can now pull apart the connector and you are done.

Once you know how to do it this way, it is like 10 minutes max under the car to get it done. But took me a while to get to this solution.