'98 V70R 250k mile front suspension refresh - who makes durable, quality parts these days? What do I actually need?

[atomicthumbs]

It's been a while since I've looked at what's available. There's a variety of different parts, but I'm not sure exactly which parts I should be replacing for peace of mind. The only suspension issues I could identify currently are a creaking noise when cranking the wheel in parking lots, which I assume is tie rods and/or ends.

I mostly commute in my car, but when I take it on a road trip, it usually involves some lightly to moderately unwise desert offroading, and I enjoy driving it fast in curves. Whatever's on there has taken plenty of abuse without falling apart and I want to make sure it stays that way going forward.

What do I actually need to do to this thing, and which parts of the front suspension should I be replacing? If I can save money by going with high-quality aftermarket instead of genuine Volvo parts I'd prefer to, but I'm uncertain which parts are good quality from which brand these days. Who do y'all recommend?

[V50M66]

Are you doing a full refresh or just trying to eliminate noises?

[FireFox31]

I just bought a full spring suspension for my 1998 T5M. I'd post the parts list but it's probably different due to AWD and R. I recommend reviewing the parts diagrams at usparts.volvocars.com and make a list of every part you think you'll need.

For example, in my 1998 front suspension, I considered buying parts 1-15, 20, 21, 26-29, skipping ones which don't seem to wear. I noted the prices at Volvo (and my local dealership which offers the 10% off trick).

Then I copy/pasted the part numbers in to FCP Euro. They offer good prices on Volvo brand parts and OE replacements. OE are the companies who made the parts for Volvo selling under their own names, sometimes with the Volvo badging simply scratched off. Same quality, much lower prices. I have a thread about aftermarket parts brands to help learn which to trust or avoid. Sachs are OE for suspension components but for shocks/struts, enthusiasts swear by Bilstein B4 for slightly sporty handling and Bilstein B6 for significantly firm sport handling.

Choosing front springs for the R will be tricky since Volvo discontinued them and OE doesn't offer a cross referenced part. You could get some other spring, but I haven't found a good way to confirm which will give you the handling that you want.

[WhatAmIDoing]

After 300k miles my sway bar bushings were shot. They were causing squeaking, creaking, and clunking noises while turning and going over bumps. You can replace them but you have to remove the sway bar and melt the olds ones off. Since you've removed the sway bar, might as well upgrade to an IPD blue sway bar. It makes cornering so much better.

Sachs (OE), Bilstein, and Koni are favorites for struts. You will have to do your own research to decide what's best for you.

When I did a full front end refresh, I bought Sachs struts and all new associated hardware (yes get the stupid expensive bolts). I reused my springs. No need to replace them unless you think your ride height is too low (spring too compressed) or they are broken. New inner and outer tie rods and boots. New control arms. New sway bar links. IPD sway bar after I realized those bushings were shot. This is a good time to do subframe bushings, which may help with body roll and unexplained noises. Also a good time to do axle boots if yours are badly cracked. Really the only thing left after all that would be the steering rack, but only if you had a good reason: leaking, excessive play etc. New control arms and tie rods removed 85% of my steering play.

I used all Meyle HD parts the first time (minus sway bar and struts) when I did My S70 years ago. When I did my V70 I went with the same, but ended up returning most of them due to poor quality. Replaced with Lemforder, and TRW for the tie rods.

If you are seeking better performance than stock for your application, would be worth calling IPD (a forum sponsor) to discuss what you are looking for and receive some solid recommendations.

[V50M66]

Ok, if you're going factory replacement, just throw your stock R springs on a set of Sachs shocks, new OE (FCP will tell you) spring perches and bearing plates, new 4 bolt OE control arms, new tie rod kit and sway bar end links, and call it a day.

Stock height, better feel, go same as above but w/ Bilstein B4 and BNE Dynamics Delrin subframe bushings. B6 and especially Bilstein HD ride too stiff for these cars, and B4 is a great all-around sporty option. They're also on sale for almost $100 cheaper than FCP for the set on RockAuto.

If you wanna go all out, lowered, handling-oriented without going too low or sacrificing ride quality (what I'm doing on mine) - Delrin subframe bushings from BNE, new 4 bolt control arms, B4s all around (for a FWD car, yes), QA1 t-bar conversion in the rear, H&R lowering springs (for FWD P80 wagon) in front, and BNE Dynamics rear adjustable perches w/ Eibach 400 lb/in linear springs in back.

[atomicthumbs]

Thank y'all for advice, it's quite helpful. I've already got IPD sway bars and HD end links, installed with IPD poly subframe bushings in 2016 or so, and Koni Yellows that still have plenty of life in them. I live in California, so I don't think my springs are gonna need replacing. Already got poly subframe bushings. Not sure which of those all are wear items. Control arms, steering rack, and tie rods were replaced about 90,000 miles ago.

Mostly I'm looking at the parts that really get hammered on when I take washboard roads at speed in the desert, or that are at risk of having been hit by a too-tall rock at some point. Not looking to change the ride height as it's low enough already and with the sways, shocks, and old-style IPD strut brace, the car handles just about perfectly.

Does a standard control arm replacement involve both the upper and lower arms?

[abscate]

The P80 design is a single , lower control arm only.

If you have 90k on yours, it’s time for new ones

[Elpigo]

Dear friends,

Here is my problem: I have changed every components of the suspension on my car (1997 850 base model) including subframe bushings,engine mounts.(all of them), the springs, struts and even the control arms and the sway bar all still that to have a rough ride on dry days. I specify on dry days because on wet days (rainy days) it the gets smooth again and I just can't understand why.

Could somebody have an explanation for this situation? What can wetness (or dryness) affect to do this? I just don't know what else could be done to have a normal ride on all days, might they be dry or wet!

Thanks for any help or guidance.

[scot850]

I can only think it could be tire related. When you say rough, you don't mean noisy?

When you fitted the lower control arms, did you tighten them with the weight on the suspension?

What brand of shock absorbers did you fit?

Neil.