Sway bar/end link noise?

Post by **scot850** » 17 Jul 2023, 14:08

And no, you can't replace the top spring seat without removing the complete strut.

Neil.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 17 Jul 2023, 19:46

I had my sister video record the top of the strut while I was turning the steering wheel to the left. See below:

: strut top while turning wheel left - Made with Clipchamp_1689643575606.gif (10.59 MiB) Viewed 625 times

Movement of the strut top was hardly noticeable.

Now, I have the steering wheel turned all the way to the left and the car will not move when I shift into drive or reverse. When I begin to straighten the wheel, the car will move forward/backward.
Could there be something on the rack that is preventing movement when the wheel is turned all the way to the left?

Tomorrow, I will raise the front end and remove the tire so I can hopefully see what the problem is.
Is there is bump stop of some sort on the rack so the wheel only goes so far in either direction?
Appreciate your thoughts on this!

Post by **scot850** » 17 Jul 2023, 19:56

There is a limit stop arm on the front of the knuckle, and that should be limited in it's travel by a nylon pad on it the leading edge of the lower control arm that acts as the limit stop.

That spring seat is really bad. One pothole away from waving to you through the hood!

Neil.

Post by **foggydogg** » 17 Jul 2023, 22:14

5rivers wrote: 17 Jul 2023, 19:46

Movement of the strut top was hardly noticeable.

Appreciate your thoughts on this!

The fact that the strut mount is shedding rubber is diagnostic for replacing the mount. If the strut cylinders aren't leaking and the car doesn't misbehave while cornering and such - that is, if the only issue is the clunking - then just replacing the mount is budget friendly doing the work yourself. Paying a shop to do the work means they have to touch all the pieces anyway, so think about refreshing the struts themselves (especially if this is the car with 260k and the struts are original.)
The range of motion is limited by a protrusion extending from the base of the steering knuckle making contact with a hard plastic pad on the lower control arm.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 18 Jul 2023, 15:56

Well, I was able to take a closer look at the inside of the rim and determine where it is rubbing. At first I thought it was the bleeder screw - had to replace not long ago, but it's longer than the original one in the caliper. When I had the wheel turned all the way to the left, the rim seemed like it was making contact with the top outer part of the caliper.
I made a slight adjustment to the inner tie rod and that seemed to increase the clearance. But, after straightening out the front wheels, I looked again inside the rim. There was a definite line of coating missing all the way around the rim. Initially I thought maybe its the lower part of the knuckle (the arm that sticks out) with the plastic bump stop. But it wasn't that. I did find some of the rim coating on the part of the strut that sticks out just above the upper bolt securing it to the knuckle.
I am now wondering if there needs to be more adjustment to the tie rods - more toe in, maybe? that would bring the lower part of the wheel in, and the upper part out, if I am correct. Trying to make enough of an adjustment to be able to drive the car to a shop for a wheel alignment.
Appreciate your thoughts!

I have not forgotten about the strut...and its possible role in the tire rubbing scenario.

Post by **scot850** » 18 Jul 2023, 17:18

Can you post picture(s). I had a problem once and it was with 15" wheels and the balance weights catching on the caliper. Those stick on ones.

Neil.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 18 Jul 2023, 19:09

There are 15" wheels on the car.
I'll post pictures tomorrow.

Post by **scot850** » 18 Jul 2023, 19:31

So check if there are any residues of the sticky tape that holds stick on balance weights or even weights still there. I used to have regular knock on weights on the inside of 15" wheels for that reason.

Neil.

WhatAmIDoing · Post by **WhatAmIDoing** » 18 Jul 2023, 20:59

I honestly can't believe Volvo offered 15 inch rims on these cars. There is very, very little clearance to the caliper with a healthy suspension.

Not much sense in getting an alignment, as it sounds like you have multiple worn suspension components left to sort out first.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 19 Jul 2023, 14:42

The car came to me with 15 inch steel rims that I replaced with a set of 15" alloy rims. I did inquire here about that and if there were going to be issues, and at the time, it didn't appear to be a problem...only that the speedometer would be reflecting a slightly slower speed.
Shortly, I'll post pictures of the rim in question.

I'll start searching for 16" rims and tires...