1998 S70 - AC Compressor hex bolt heads stripped... Suggestions?

[clarkerussell]

Hello all,

The high pressure hose from the compressor to condenser blew apart at the compression fitting last week and while trying to remove it from the compressor, I stripped the hex head. The bolt WOULD NOT BUDGE, even after trying a bolt extractor tool that just made it worse... That bolt is a standard thread, right? Lefty loosy, righty tighty, right?

I'm not sure what to do now. If I can get it off, I'm assuming I'll have to pull the compressor and hope I can extract it from there? Oh, and I have had no luck on the low pressure side either.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sort of dead in the water right now.

[scot850]

Hi, can you post a picture so we can see what you are having to deal with. I find a visual helps aid suggestions on how to tackle the issues. The lines from the compressor can be evil.

Neil.

[abscate]

Probably an Irwin external extractor is the best bet. Heat it for 30 seconds first, replace o-ring

[clarkerussell]

Hi, can you post a picture so we can see what you are having to deal with. I find a visual helps aid suggestions on how to tackle the issues. The lines from the compressor can be evil.

Neil.

Sure, I put everything back together so the car could be driven without AC for a short while, but here is a pic of the hose that blew off as well as the best pic of the stripped retaining screw on the back of the compressor that holds the high pressure (discharge) hose. You can see the very shiny one, that's the one that's now stripped out. Please forgive the oily mess around that area, I still have to replace the failing oil cooler hoses ASAP..

Back to the bolt, that thing wouldn't budget at ALL... I'm afraid to put heat on it due to the seals, but I don't know what else to try. This SHOULD have been a simple hose and dryer replacement, but now it's looking like an AC compressor might be in order as well.

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[scot850]

Can you pull the compressor to get more access to that bolt or would it not help. I hear you on the heat issue and the concerns on seals.

If you remove the compressor, you might be able to get a pair of vice grips on that bolt. Give it a good tap with a hammer a few times to try to shock the threads loose. A radical option is to try hammering a hex socket over it and see if you can get it to cut enough grip to turn it out. I know I had a devil of a job too getting those off. Dissimilar metals is the usual culprit.

Neil.

[abscate]

30-60 seconds of propane won’t damage anything, and you always replace o-rings in ACwork if you disturb them, since they cost $1

Plan B is drop compressor for access,

PlanC is cut the hard lines and to get the compressor off and on the bench, after you fail at releasing the line from compressor to accumulator ( a big hard to access 22 mm taper)

[foggydogg]

I'm with Dr. Abscate, get it off the car and on the bench. It could be simpler to get a replacement, either used (roll the dice), or rebuilt (more dice rolling). Most good salvage yards guarantee their stuff, but not labor.
As for the engine oil cooler lines, take the advice of our good friend Robert, get a delete plate (1366780) and remove the problem entirely. Robert did that to his 850R many years ago, is way harder on the equipment than most people, has his oil analyzed regularly, and the car has over 450k on it.

[clarkerussell]

I'm thinking I do just need to pull the whole thing, compressor and receiver/dryer, as a unit and replace them all. It's the original clutch and compressor, and I was going to replace the dryer anyway. A rebuilt Volvo branded compressor is not TOO bad at $400 and the hoses (aftermarket) are cheap, as is the receiver/dryer. If I remove the PS pump and alternator, can the compressor be pulled from the top?

[abscate]

Bottom drop Is a lot easier. Raise car six inches or so. The hard part is the line disconnects

[abscate]

Sanden compressor from FCP ABOUT $250?

Lifetime warranty!