1998 V70XC burning oil and crank no start

[abscate]

When I did my three axle drops I put a 4x4 under the whole back of the car on three jackstands.

I cribbed up with 4x4 safeties as a backup , you can keep those under the axle until you are ready to drop, then move them.

Don’t be under the car at all when you are breaking it free.

[scot850]

I hear you, it would be embarrassing to do something like that! Always better to ask before than after!

Good Luck!

Neil.

[jsrnsis]

I've read up on the method of lowering the tank without removing the whole subframe. I understand I need to remove the rear exhaust, and lower the viscous coupling. Is there anything else attached to the fuel tank that would break when the front of the tank gets lowered, anything attached to the body? Does the filler neck have enough flex? I think this should give sufficient room to remove the leaking fuel line, as someone else did this job by cutting the hole behind the seats and not lowering the tank at all.

[jsrnsis]

I finally got something accomplished on this car.
Removing the tank straps and the passenger side trailing arm I was able to get the tank down far enough to get a tool in there to manipulate the disconnect. Tool was just a clothes hanger bent into shape.

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The trailing arm comes down after removing the jacking point, I put a jack under the trailing arm so I was able to lower it slowly after removing the 18mm bolt in the circular jacking point, once the trailing arm bracket was free of the jack point flange, I just put the 18mm bolt back in to hold it in place so I wasn't putting strain on the brake line that's clipped in to the circular jack pad.

[abscate]

Well done!

[jsrnsis]

I decided I might as well remove the viscous coupling and drop the tank even further to make my life easier. I removed the 6 bolts from the driveshaft to VC flange, and then proceeded to snap off the second bolt holding the center driveshaft bearing to the bracket.
After a deluge of choice words and threatening the car with scrapping, I went to split the exhaust at the center flare fitting to be able to remove that support bracket. Turns out the flare fitting was smothered in exhaust putty and pretty much glued together, so out came the sawzall. With the exhaust split, I was able to remove the bracket, and supported the catalytic converter pipe and center of the driveshaft with a bucket.
It wasn't as easy to pop the front CV joint out of the angle gear flange as my other v70xc I recently did that job on, but I was able to use a harbor freight locking chain wrench (combo of a strap wrench and vice grips) and turn the driveshaft while the car was in park, and break the CV housing free of the flange. From there I was able to pry the joint apart with minimal effort.

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So this is where I'm at now.......

[jsrnsis]

Long interlude after catching COVID...

[scot850]

That is unfortunate. It is out there doing the rounds again. My wife and son are just over it. Get well soon!

Neil.

[abscate]

Hope you are well again!

Remember to store that viscous coupling on its rear side, vertically. This keeps the viscous part, viscous

[jsrnsis]

Yeah it's really going around, I'm on day 7 and I still feel like garbage.

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We got this awful fuel line out, only because it broke in half. I don't know who decided painted steel was ok, but aluminum fuel lines would have probably prevented a lot of early deaths for P80 AWDs.
I didn't even end up getting the viscous coupler down, I have no idea how I'd remove this upper flange bolt. Picture got flipped but you can just see it poking out from behind the aluminum torque tube.

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It seems the re-installation will be just as tedious as the removal.