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2001 V70 XC PCV Breather Hose Leaking Coolant

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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AfterHours
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Year and Model: 2001 V70 XC
Location: Vancouver WA
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2001 V70 XC PCV Breather Hose Leaking Coolant

Post by AfterHours »

Hello all,

I am hoping for some advice on my leaking 2001 V70 XC.

Background: I purchased the car during covid with 143,000 miles on it. I always wanted a Volvo and working from home I figured it would be good to go with routine maintenance. It seemed to run well for a 20 year old car, no egregious leaks or noises. Timing was done at 99k and my local import guy said the throttle body is likely going to need to be replaced and the exhaust camshaft code will be done with new timing belt service. Work done (by my local shop and myself) so far:
Transmission flush
Tires / alignment, full brake service,
Front shock absorbers, control arm bushings, tie rods
AC intake manif, flow sensor
top torque mount, cam control solenoid, coolant temp sensor, intake pipe to turbo.

Driving the car around (after being on vacation for 6 weeks and replacing the dead battery) I noticed it was leaking after parking it. Coolant low message. Topped it off, got it up to temp and started hunting. After giving it some RPMs it was pretty clear. Old faithful spouting out of a "Ubend" leading from the crankcase breather assy PN 9470330 to a banjo bolt on the engine.
U bend
U bend
20230911_175314.jpg (314.86 KiB) Viewed 750 times
9470330
9470330
Screenshot 2023-09-12 163823.jpg (29.79 KiB) Viewed 750 times
I have read through many of the fabulous guides here on servicing the PCV system. Replacing the entire Breather Pipe Assembly seems a little daunting due to my inexperience. I am hoping I can just replace the small leaking hose, and clean out / replace the banjo fitting. The other hoses/pipes look great. My local guy says he would require doing the whole thing, $$$, but that I could do it if I found the right hose. Do I need to bite the bullet here?

If I can just replace the leaking hose, what hose should I use? I have been unable to find a sub assembly for 9470330 to buy the hose alone. any tips on the process?

Long time lurker, first time poster. I appreciate the patience and please let me know if I can provide any additional information.

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Blacklab467
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Year and Model: 2007 xc 70
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I'd be almost certain you will have to take the intake manifold off to access the hose to replace it. I would replace it with heater hose of the same dimension, not sure what that dimension is but it should be available at Napa or somewhere that they sell bulk hose, also insist on Oetiker clamps if you "repair" it. It's probably about the same amount of work to replace the PCV system and likely coming due soon enough with 143000K, did you do the glove test? It is a big job if you're not a DIY'er. I'm not sure why the throttle body would need replacing though, they usually respond well to a good cleaning.
As you seem to be just getting into it, and especially if you're changing sensors and front end parts, etc. insist that you're mechanic use Volvo branded parts. These cars really do not tolerate aftermarket junk. Read that again.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

the banjo bolt has to be upgraded to the new version. it has a ball bearing which can be injested into the engine and break a valve.


RonaldStevens
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Joined: 12 September 2023
Year and Model: 2023 Volvo V40
Location: Sanfransisco

Post by RonaldStevens »

Thanks for bringing this issue to the forum. Based on the description of the leak coming from the small "U-bend" hose connecting the PCV breather assembly to the engine, it seems replacing just that hose may be possible without removing the intake manifold.

I would recommend finding a heater hose of the same inner diameter to replace it. Make sure to use high quality Oetiker clamps as suggested. It's also important to upgrade the banjo bolt connection to the newer version, as noted, to prevent potential valve issues.

Be sure to clean both the banjo fitting and inside of the hose thoroughly before connecting the new hose. This will help ensure a proper seal. Given the age and mileage, it may also be worthwhile to do a visual inspection of the other PCV hoses and connections for any signs of cracking or deterioration.

Replacing just the leaking hose connecting the PCV breather assembly is a good option to try, as long as you can access it okay. For sealing the new hose, I would strongly recommend using Versachem 90214 Plastic Tank and Radiator Repair Kit - the best epoxy for gas tank repair.
It is an excellent two-part epoxy specifically formulated for repairing and sealing plastic tanks, radiators and hoses. It bonds very well to both plastic and metal surfaces and is resistant to fuels, coolants, water and lubricants. The flexible cure won't crack over time like other epoxies.

Make sure to clean and rough up the surfaces with sandpaper before applying the epoxy. Spread a thin, even layer on both the inside of the hose and the banjo bolt fitting. Don't use too much or it may ooze out. Push the hose onto the fitting while the epoxy is still wet. Clamp it tightly until fully cured per the instructions.

The Versachem 90214 should provide a strong, durable and water-tight seal. Just be sure not to get any epoxy inside the hose. Proper sealing is key to ensuring the repair holds up. Let me know if you have any other questions!

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chris11211
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Post by chris11211 »

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/22640/M ... o-30731068

Here's IPD's kit that includes the hose.

My mechanic changed that same part for about $400+ if you don't want to do it. But yes, you don't have to remove the intake. You just work on it from the side not the front.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

You can replace that hose on car without removing the PCV. I’ve got the hose measurements somewhere. Use good closed band or oetiker clamps. It doesn’t have to look just like stock but be aware of where it routes so it doesn’t chafe.

The coolant banjo bolt doesn’t have anything to do with the vacuum banjo bolt that’s needs the upgrade, is this needed on a 2001?
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