Driving home, naturally on a cold night after a double shift.
I goes to beat the stale green light on a very long interval intersection of two small highways in NH... Swinging wide in a double turn lane to wrap the corner fast...
I don't even make it to the intersection in fact, where, you know, my Lower Control Arm explodes - as one does.
I instantly lost all control of car and screeched to a halt in the middle of the intersection halting traffic.
To note, this was also flat highway with great pavement and I did not strike anything or pothole and the driver side was unweighting approaching turn.
From my sleuthing - the loud Kaboom was the control arm breaking, which ripped apart the CV joint (see in pic), and the grinding was the wheel being forced into my fender in more or less a diagonal fashion.
$150 tow job as mandated by local Police even though I had AAA on the way.
At first I thought the axle broke. And the dark stuff was oil / transmission oil all puking out of the car. Then I could see it was the CV joint drawn and quartered in two. Then I noticed about the third look in the dark that the entire LCA was ripped apart in nasty looking rusty remains.
Car is 2005. kinda old yes. 140K miles. Body was beautiful, almost without flaw. Underside is not pretty - all rusty.
My knee jerk reaction - car is totaled in a practical sense. But looking it over now... thinking maybe I can get some Moog , SKF parts like new CV joint and LCA and replace them... and might not be too much money. The other side doesn't look too rusty and looks like I should be able to remove the required bolts but the drive side is hard to see clearly with all the damage. The passenger side LCA I struck to see if it felt sturdy - it did, but it rings as hollow which surprised me. My only up close and personal experience with a lower control arm was removing one from a junkyard that was aftermarket solid billet aluminum from a Honda that I then fabricated into a SteadiCam balance arm. So this cheesy hollow one was not what I was expecting to see.
Nor frankly did I know lower control arms could self grenade. Didn't know that was a thing, unless maybe you drive a car off a 8 foot cliff to flat or something like that (Bo Duke behavior type of stuff).
So... what say you folks? Fixable? Worth doing? Any other things I need to consider got damaged? Do I need to suspect the passenger side could also be frail as well?
Can I go with aftermarket CV joint and LCA? Does it have to be unicorn horn Pentosin brand for $3000 parts or normal folks Ford aftermarket stuff? I know my Honda Accord demands only a Honda axle or you'll be doing the job again with aftermarket junk for example.
BOOM! Goes the Lower Control arm (dynamite-d). Shredded
- GreenMagicMan
- Posts: 139
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- Year and Model: '10 XC70 3.2L AWD
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BOOM! Goes the Lower Control arm (dynamite-d). Shredded
'10 XC70 3.2L
'05 V50 T5 AWD (active)
'05 XC90 V8 (red - Dead)
(2) 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD (blue and silver) junked
'05 V50 T5 AWD (active)
'05 XC90 V8 (red - Dead)
(2) 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD (blue and silver) junked
- Krons
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My 2008 C70 (same chassis) with 120k miles got the following:
Control arms
Inner/outer tie rods
Swaybar links
Loaded springs/struts
CV shafts
You are already there and will be paying for an alignment so I’d suggest getting it over with at your mileage.
Also get a case of Fluid Film and hose down that underbody when the job is done to slow the rust.
Control arms
Inner/outer tie rods
Swaybar links
Loaded springs/struts
CV shafts
You are already there and will be paying for an alignment so I’d suggest getting it over with at your mileage.
Also get a case of Fluid Film and hose down that underbody when the job is done to slow the rust.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
- BlackBart
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Wow, a lower CA rotted all the way through? Amazing. The P80s and P2s that's a cast alum piece so I've never seen that.
That's pretty catastrophic at speed - glad you weren't going faster or close to an obstacle!
That's pretty catastrophic at speed - glad you weren't going faster or close to an obstacle!
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
- GreenMagicMan
- Posts: 139
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- Location: VT
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Thanks!
Yes I was bummed but then grateful I wasn’t ripping on the Vermont mountain pass I usually go in and out of frequently (Bethel Mtn Road pass for those in the know… hairy turns and crazy steep ascents and descents). Would have be catastrophic.
Damn good thing was late night. That two lane turn is always full daytime. I would 100% taken out 1-3 other cars if any were turning anywhere near me. Zero steering and brakes barely functioned.
Krons: thanks for response. Any quality aftermarket brand ok like SKF or Moog for CV and LCA and LBJ?
Yes I was bummed but then grateful I wasn’t ripping on the Vermont mountain pass I usually go in and out of frequently (Bethel Mtn Road pass for those in the know… hairy turns and crazy steep ascents and descents). Would have be catastrophic.
Damn good thing was late night. That two lane turn is always full daytime. I would 100% taken out 1-3 other cars if any were turning anywhere near me. Zero steering and brakes barely functioned.
Krons: thanks for response. Any quality aftermarket brand ok like SKF or Moog for CV and LCA and LBJ?
'10 XC70 3.2L
'05 V50 T5 AWD (active)
'05 XC90 V8 (red - Dead)
(2) 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD (blue and silver) junked
'05 V50 T5 AWD (active)
'05 XC90 V8 (red - Dead)
(2) 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD (blue and silver) junked
- Krons
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When I did my C70 I went with the OEM brands off FCPEuro for the LCA, swaybar links and inner/outer tie rods. I did save some bucks on TRQ loaded struts and CV shafts from an eBay seller, some here warn against aftermarket there but I have over 20,000 miles on them in my S60s that I’ve been happy with.GreenMagicMan wrote: ↑22 Nov 2023, 11:46 Krons: thanks for response. Any quality aftermarket brand ok like SKF or Moog for CV and LCA and LBJ?
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
- Roger_850T
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That's a pretty impressive failure of the LCA! I would start with a good inspection underneath, to see if there is anything else that similarly has a lot of rust. If it's on the chassis, not replaceable suspension parts, as much as I hate to say it, it might be time to retire the car. Sometimes the rust is just too much.
If you do proceed, I would plan for both LCA's, (from FCP,) as you want to do them in pairs. Yes for the axle that broke, possibly for the other side. Tie rod ends and ball joints if needed. The swaybar endlinks look like they've had better days. If it's time I'd consider struts (with the top strut bearing), but not necessarily required. I would likely use whichever brand FCP indicates is OE/OEM, but never again Meyle.
Good luck!
Roger
If you do proceed, I would plan for both LCA's, (from FCP,) as you want to do them in pairs. Yes for the axle that broke, possibly for the other side. Tie rod ends and ball joints if needed. The swaybar endlinks look like they've had better days. If it's time I'd consider struts (with the top strut bearing), but not necessarily required. I would likely use whichever brand FCP indicates is OE/OEM, but never again Meyle.
Good luck!
Roger
11 XC60 137k
08 V50 Project... Still in pieces
05 XC90 V8 213k
95 854T 350k Still my favorite daily driver
02 V70 186k+ Gave to my daughter, still going strong
03 S80 111k (crashed, but driver walked away unhurt)
93 945T 217k (gone to be parted out)
87 245 300k+ sold, still going afaik
84 264 Diesel, RIP at 160k
78 242 manual everything.
73 P1800ES, fun until the rust set in...
08 V50 Project... Still in pieces
05 XC90 V8 213k
95 854T 350k Still my favorite daily driver
02 V70 186k+ Gave to my daughter, still going strong
03 S80 111k (crashed, but driver walked away unhurt)
93 945T 217k (gone to be parted out)
87 245 300k+ sold, still going afaik
84 264 Diesel, RIP at 160k
78 242 manual everything.
73 P1800ES, fun until the rust set in...
- abscate
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I confess my strategy would be showing up with a bunch of parts at whoever safety inspected that car and telling them to have a nice week fixing it, don’t bother with a bill.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- GreenMagicMan
- Posts: 139
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Well this car hasn't even made it to an inspection yet. Was just me visually under the car with wheels off looking at things and shaking the the suspension parts prior.
I've made an unfortunate discovery. RockAuto does not have available an AT AWD driver CV axle for sale on their site. only MT and/or FWD or passenger side anything but not driver side this specific. EDIT: apparently for the driver side (left) axle the part is the same for Auto AT transmissions for FWD or AWD. So re-checking now what's available.
I've also been wondering about rebuilding the CV joint. I've torn out and re-installed a new CV boot before to replace a torn one (had to split the joint and slide boot on and then re-assemble. I am a bit familiar with that whole thing...
I can get a boot kit and try to re-assemble it. Thoughts?
The car - after the BOOM - skidded to stop mostly straight ahead for about 100 feet or less. Then flat bed loaded and dropped at my house, so that's it. The wheel turned out - away from the other connected passenger wheel. So my theory is it pulled apart the CV joint - the boot is completely ripped.
Crazy thoughts here? I'd love to get this thing fixed fairly soon. Thank you for any thoughts on this -
A) Guess / assume / hope the axle is ok on both sides. Reassemble the axle with a new CV boot and grease.
B) re-building just the CV joint itself with a kit (new boot too needed) and put back together.
C) buy all new or rebuilt complete axle - under assumption axle / CV was damaged and not trustworthy to re-build.
D) pull entire axle and bring to 4WD drive shop (?) for them to rebuild it for me
LCA of decent quality are easily available for this for about $50-60 delivered.
I'd also like to not spend a lot of money here if possible. If the costs get too high might have to consider it totaled.
I've made an unfortunate discovery. RockAuto does not have available an AT AWD driver CV axle for sale on their site. only MT and/or FWD or passenger side anything but not driver side this specific. EDIT: apparently for the driver side (left) axle the part is the same for Auto AT transmissions for FWD or AWD. So re-checking now what's available.
I've also been wondering about rebuilding the CV joint. I've torn out and re-installed a new CV boot before to replace a torn one (had to split the joint and slide boot on and then re-assemble. I am a bit familiar with that whole thing...
I can get a boot kit and try to re-assemble it. Thoughts?
The car - after the BOOM - skidded to stop mostly straight ahead for about 100 feet or less. Then flat bed loaded and dropped at my house, so that's it. The wheel turned out - away from the other connected passenger wheel. So my theory is it pulled apart the CV joint - the boot is completely ripped.
Crazy thoughts here? I'd love to get this thing fixed fairly soon. Thank you for any thoughts on this -
A) Guess / assume / hope the axle is ok on both sides. Reassemble the axle with a new CV boot and grease.
B) re-building just the CV joint itself with a kit (new boot too needed) and put back together.
C) buy all new or rebuilt complete axle - under assumption axle / CV was damaged and not trustworthy to re-build.
D) pull entire axle and bring to 4WD drive shop (?) for them to rebuild it for me
LCA of decent quality are easily available for this for about $50-60 delivered.
I'd also like to not spend a lot of money here if possible. If the costs get too high might have to consider it totaled.
'10 XC70 3.2L
'05 V50 T5 AWD (active)
'05 XC90 V8 (red - Dead)
(2) 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD (blue and silver) junked
'05 V50 T5 AWD (active)
'05 XC90 V8 (red - Dead)
(2) 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD (blue and silver) junked
- GreenMagicMan
- Posts: 139
- Joined: 19 February 2020
- Year and Model: '10 XC70 3.2L AWD
- Location: VT
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Ordered the Beck/Arnley LCA just now.
They don't stock any inner CV boots for the AWD model (grrr...)
Found online this site: https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1J0498201G
this product from GKN lists it is compatible with my AWD T5 V50 and several other cars (!):
Audi A4 Quattro, A6 Quattro, A4, TT Quattro, S6, A6, RS6
Volvo V70, S60, XC70, S80, S70, S60 AWD, S40 AWD, V50, V50 AWD
VW Jetta, Golf, Jetta IV, Golf IV
Seems suspicious... but then again it's simply a damn rubber boot with clamps. And also this V50 is a Ford world car / Mazda3 so there should be a lot of part interchange. But the VW and Audi seems very surprising. This part apparently doesn't differentiate from AWD or FWD for the V50 either.
Anyone with thoughts here?
EDIT: Just found this too, Mevotech part and cross referenced from their direct website it's an exact fit for my AWD T5 and a lot more cars too; https://www.mevotech.com/part//DX221
So just gonna order one of these now.
They don't stock any inner CV boots for the AWD model (grrr...)
Found online this site: https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1J0498201G
this product from GKN lists it is compatible with my AWD T5 V50 and several other cars (!):
Audi A4 Quattro, A6 Quattro, A4, TT Quattro, S6, A6, RS6
Volvo V70, S60, XC70, S80, S70, S60 AWD, S40 AWD, V50, V50 AWD
VW Jetta, Golf, Jetta IV, Golf IV
Seems suspicious... but then again it's simply a damn rubber boot with clamps. And also this V50 is a Ford world car / Mazda3 so there should be a lot of part interchange. But the VW and Audi seems very surprising. This part apparently doesn't differentiate from AWD or FWD for the V50 either.
Anyone with thoughts here?
EDIT: Just found this too, Mevotech part and cross referenced from their direct website it's an exact fit for my AWD T5 and a lot more cars too; https://www.mevotech.com/part//DX221
So just gonna order one of these now.
'10 XC70 3.2L
'05 V50 T5 AWD (active)
'05 XC90 V8 (red - Dead)
(2) 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD (blue and silver) junked
'05 V50 T5 AWD (active)
'05 XC90 V8 (red - Dead)
(2) 2007 XC90 3.2 AWD (blue and silver) junked
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