Please help! Broken fuel filter connectors

[C30D5Peasant]

I inherited my late step fathers 2007 C30 D5, and have just replaced the fuel pressure sensor, suction control valve and MAP sensor. I thought I'd also replace the fuel filter as I've no idea when it was last done, plus I suspect some contaminated diesel caused a problem.
Anyway, I went to change the fuel filter and noticed that the previous mechanic had broken the housing, and was held up with a zip tie.
I tried to support the housing whilst undoing the main large part but it span, and snapped 2 of the female connectors !

Thankfully there's no fuel leaking as they're stuck in the IN/OUT piping but is it possible to remove/replace them ?
(I was thinking of trying to hold them in some hot water, then try to pull out of the fuel line and replace)
Or do I need to replace these lines if they come with connectors pre-fitted ? (does anyone have a part number?)
Obviously I have to buy a new fuel filter housing but argh, nothing but problems recently.

Appreciate any help on this, 20 mins job now turned into hell.

[Krons]

Unfortunately I notice there aren’t a lot of P1 diesel experts on the forum, maybe you’ll get lucky.

I’d consider a call to the local Volvo dealer to get part numbers and prices—can then decide to order through them or acquire the parts elsewhere.

[C30D5Peasant]

Hey Krons, cheers for the reply.
I guess it's partially a generic question as I'm sure most of the 2000's cars have these nylon/plastic fuel fittings somewhere.

I'm just wondering firstly, if they do sell the lines - I guess I have to drop the fuel tank (no access from the top - what a genius idea that was), and I'm not sure as of yet where the other line goes to.

Or even if it's possible to remove the barbed fittings from the lines (maybe in hot water/heat gun), I'm not sure if I can get some kind of tool in there to fit new connectors. I've seen it done with a pipe clamp and a caulk gun/sockets.

[C30D5Peasant]

Well I'm sure I won't the only person who gets shafted by this kind of thing.
So I opted to do it 'right' and no hacking of lines etc.
These are the part numbers:

31261002 - In pipe (in the middle of the filter)
31261003 - Out pipe (on the right of the fuel filter)
31342919 - Fuel filter housing

Whilst I'm waiting for parts to arrive, I took the old lines off, it wasn't as tricky as I expected it was going to be.

I watched a few videos of people changing fuel pumps on their Ford Focus' just to get a rough idea of what to do. I was contemplating just cutting a hole in the cabin to gain access to the top of the fuel tank but decided to try it the proper way first. What a bunch of aholes they are for deciding not to have a service hatch from the cabin.

Get the car up on axle stands.
Unclip the multitude of pipe connectors that hold the two lines together, you'll see that these lines go from the back of the tank to the front.
I pulled them down so they were dangling freely underneath the car with a container to catch the stinky diesel.
The out pipe is very easy to access, you'll see it from the front of the tank. I disconnected the red connector first, then I disconnected the OUT line (easier).
Now you'll also see that the IN pipe goes up to the top of the fuel tank to the pump.
Undo 2 plastic heat shield nut things (in my case 10mm).
Get a suitable jack with a flat piece of wood on top, I used a transmission jack a random piece of ikea wood just to help spread the load and balance easier. Raise the jack up to support the tank, undo the 3 x 10mm strap bolts (note they have a little blue loctite on them).
Remove the filler neck support bracket bolt (8mm), this'll give you some wiggle room on the filler pipe.
I didn't undo my filler pipe from the tank, I move it back maybe 5mm but decided it looked too annoying and it also didn't have a retaining clip on it holding it to the tank !
At this point I decided to lower the tank slowly, so that the filler pipe wasn't under stress. I got to a sweet point where I could get my hand up to the connector, push it in and pull it out !
Done.

So yep, reverse that for installation, not sure on the torque for the 3 strap bolts but I'll use some medium loctite on them and just feel it as I do them up. At a guess I'd imagine them to be around 30-40nm.