PCV Oil Separator wrongly routed IMPORTANT, EVERYONE READ!

dasapir · Post by **dasapir** » 07 Apr 2008, 21:33

I was wondering if anyone knows what the internal architecture is of the PVC
canister? Is it just an internal baffle between the fresh-air hose and the
engine compartment hoses or is there a mesh or trap for the oil.

The reason I ask is that cleaning with a solvent will be far less effective if there is a anything more than a simple baffling system inside the PCV canister. Since I am going to order the manifold gasket is it worth just buying a new canister? And also for curiosity's sake.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 07 Apr 2008, 21:38

Plastic baffle with gravity helping trap the oil....clean away with solvents!
It's such a nasty thing I just replace mine if I'm in that far.

dasapir · Post by **dasapir** » 23 Apr 2008, 13:46

well, finally pulled the manifold etc. off this weekend and switched the hoses going to the PCV canister. Also, replaced the old canister with a new one. Checked the PTC nipple. Cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor also.

What surprised me was how little oil deposit was in the canister, hoses, and the PTC nipple was completely clean. After 1 year I expected more deposit.

I can only contribute this to have switched to Mobil 1 synthetic. Perhaps there is truth to the idea that the synthetic oils are better on the PCV system.

Can't say I feel any difference in the car.

Also dropped the gas tank to reach the supposed leaking hose on the top of the tank(':roll:'), but that is another story and will post that on another thread.

Rsterns · Post by **Rsterns** » 30 Jul 2008, 14:08

MadeInJapan,
Your diagram is absolutely correct. I have a 98 V70 T5, currently with 278,000 miles on it. I like this car enough, that I've purchased a used motor and trany, which I've just finished rebuilding, and will be swaping out up at IPD, as well as adding a stage III kit. Here's a link to the photos I'm taking as I build. http://rides.webshots.com/album/563883893OGxoym Anyway, I purchased a new PVC trap and hoses for the build, and was having trouble finding a good diagram. Fortunatly, I still had the old trap with hoses attached (low mileage motor so I'm confident it's factory), and the layout matches exactly what you have stated. The top rear hose goes up to the cam cover, the one in front is to the intake.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 Jul 2008, 20:02

Wow! That's quite a project. Glad you found my diagram to be correct. A word of caution- before you begin to drive the car with the rebuilt engine, replace the FRAM oil filter with a MANN or VOLVO filter. Fram's are crap as they do not have a valve in them to keep oil up at the top of the egine which is needed on start-up.

Rsterns · Post by **Rsterns** » 04 Aug 2008, 16:12

Thanks for your kind comments. I only put the Fram on for the oil I intend to run for maybe an hour as a 'security flush', then I'll go with the good stuff!

carp-guru · Post by **carp-guru** » 18 Dec 2008, 15:48

tailor wrote:Fantastic write- up could have used that a few months ago.

An extra check, make sure the rubber on the bayonett connector is not saturated with oil and has lost it's hold on the turbo hose, thereby letting un-metered air in.

When I checked the valve mentioned prior to replacement I found it lying along the transmission. The seal as described had swollen and blown out. The nipple in the valve solid with carbon, so thankyou for the great write up.
As I found out whilst changing the pipe the hole within the valve is now 2-3 times larger than the old one.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 18 Dec 2008, 17:48

So, how did you resolve this? Did you have to buy a new accordion hose?

carp-guru · Post by **carp-guru** » 19 Dec 2008, 15:58

No option. You cannot get the seal without the pipe and valve.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 19 Dec 2008, 17:08

Yeah, I knew that...(duh).
Oh well...I'm thinking www.fcpgroton.com (10% off your order if you use "frosty" at checkout) or eeuroparts.com (free shipping) for the best deals on this.