1998 V90 signal/hazard fuse keeps burning out

Lynne · Post by **Lynne** » 27 Jul 2008, 23:03

have gone through 5 fuses for the turn signal/hazard lights in the last 4 days. Have checked the bulbs and they're fine. After inserting a new fuse the turn signal and hazard lights work for about 5 minutes and then the fuse burns out. Is it a coincidence that we just changed out the low beam bulb a week ago? Any ideas? The car has 270,000 miles and is has an automatic transmission.

Post by **billofdurham** » 28 Jul 2008, 13:06

Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

Did you take out the sidelight/turnsignal light unit when you replaced the low beam bulb? On some cars that is the easiest way to get access.

Check the wiring to the turn signal on the side where you did the bulb change. It is possible that it has moved, may be chafed and shorting out.

If none of the above post back.

Bill.

Lynne · Post by **Lynne** » 28 Jul 2008, 18:05

Thanks Bill for your reply. We tried changing out the front turn signal/hazard bulbs since the contacts on the bottom of the bulbs seemed like they had meshed together (think these were the original bulbs). We tested the turn signals (left/right) and the hazard light...all seemed to be a GO. Then the test drive and just 2 minutes later the blinker didn't work. When we changed out the low beam bulb, we did not pull out the turn signal unit. I will check the contacts and wires. I did hear that possibly the turn signal/hazard relay could be the problem. Is that located on the dash where the harzard switch is? And how do you get to the switch? We have the faux wood paneling...do you pop it off with a screwdriver or is there some special tool? Appreciate you advice.

Post by **billofdurham** » 29 Jul 2008, 12:31

The hazard light switch also incorporates an electronic unit which controls the flashers. This is an expensive part, especially from a Volvo dealer, but you may be able to source one from FCP Groton or IPD USA at a better price. Check everything else before you down that route.

Faux wood panelling - I've never had any of that on my Volvos but I was always poorly paid and couldn't afford such luxuries. Back to removal of switches. You do not need to remove the wood panelling to get the switches out.

Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver or a piece of stiff but thin plastic to pry the switch out of the dash. Put a piece of cardboard or stiff paper next to it so the screwdriver/plastic doesn't mark the wood-grained trim. Start at the bottom of the switch and get it out 1/8th inch or so, and you should be able to pry and pull it past the spring clamps that hold it in the dash. The entire unit is about 4 inches long, and pulls straight out of the dash, and includes the switch and indicator lamps. Unplug the connector on the back and plug in the new unit.

Bill.

wojeepster · Post by **wojeepster** » 30 Jul 2008, 08:24

If you have a short it has to be on the power side to blow fuze. You can use a short finder available on fleabay to locate short or if you are loaded with cash you can get a powerprobe ect 2000. A very fancy short finder where you can trace the wire with a beeping transmitter receiver for about $100. I want one but can't really justify the cost in my mind. You can also just follow the wire looking for a chaffed place or where another wire, or exhaust, ect has melted insulation.

Lynne · Post by **Lynne** » 30 Jul 2008, 18:52

Well, I was able to remove the relay switch behind the HAZARD button on the dash...Bill, thanks for the detailed instructions...it worked perfectly. Our next step is to get the new one and install it. According to the Volvo dealership and another independent Volvo mechanic, it most likely is not the relay switch but a wiring problem (frayed possibly). I've checked all of the visible wires and have wrapped any frayed wires with electrical tape. Now the problem is that the right signal works, left does not at all, and when I turn the hazard flashers on that blows the fuse out. I'm determined to try and fix this problem without having to fork out $250 to the dealership. Our independent mechanic said it would take 30 minutes of labor to install the relay switch behind the HAZARD butoon!!! I was able to get it out in just a couple of minutes. If anyone has any suggestions regarding which wires I need to check, please let me know...much appreciatd.

Post by **billofdurham** » 31 Jul 2008, 12:42

It is easy to get the switches out when you know how. Your indie mechanic must be one of those who will not bill for less than 1/2 an hour so probably opens the car door, goes for a cup of coffee and comes back after 20 minutes to complete the 2 minute job.

It is strange that the problem has changed slightly. As the fuse only blows now when the hazard lights are working can I confirm you are using the correct amperage fuse, 20 amps? If you want to shout at me for asking that, go ahead, but I have done it more than once.

You have checked all visible wires and repaired those that needed it so that leads me to think that you have a bad connection in the left circuit. It may even be at the switch on the steering column. Check all the connections that you can see and ensure they are good. Also check the rear turn signals for frayed wires and good connections.

When you replaced the turn signal bulb did you use the same type of bulb as in the other turn lamps? This has been known to upset the bulb malfunction indicator but may also be a problem here. Bulbs come with two different types of end caps - silver or brass. The two should not be mixed on Volvos as it can interfere with the bulb out setup. It is only a thought but worth checking.

Bill.