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What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

Fingers crossed for you.
ex-1984 245T wagon
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scot850  
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Post by scot850 »

Didekera - sorry to hear there may be a HG issue again. Hopefully it is not or is old oil from previous issue.

On the suspension issue. Been quite a while since I last did a P2 front suspension. If you replaced the lower control arm, I believe I recall, like the P80's you should not torque the control arm bolts until the weight is on the suspension or you can damage the bushes.

I may be wrong, so maybe someone who has done this recently can confirm?

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
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dikidera
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Post by dikidera »

Well if we go through the process of elimination, I am very curious where the oil feed line is to the head. Is it just one port?

I read somewhere that because the oil port is so far away most of the time the issue from a HG is just exhaust gasses in coolant and less likely for oil unless the oil cooler fails.

Of course a cracked head can also do that, however before the head was machined it was checked for cracks and it was fine.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

dikidera wrote: 07 Jan 2024, 15:51

I read somewhere that because the oil port is so far away most of the time the issue from a HG is just exhaust gasses in coolant and less likely for oil unless the oil cooler fails.

Of course a cracked head can also do that, however before the head was machined it was checked for cracks and it was fine.
its because cyl compression is a lot higher than coolant pressure.
Coolant can enter the chamber only after shut down.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

Fixing a slow tire leak today, we're getting hit with a storm this morning.
cold concrete floor is tough on my feet so I bought some elec heated socks. They work very nicely to keep my toes warm.
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

dikidera wrote: 07 Jan 2024, 15:51 Well if we go through the process of elimination, I am very curious where the oil feed line is to the head. Is it just one port?

I read somewhere that because the oil port is so far away most of the time the issue from a HG is just exhaust gasses in coolant and less likely for oil unless the oil cooler fails.

Of course a cracked head can also do that, however before the head was machined it was checked for cracks and it was fine.
It's not head and usually not a gasket. 2.4T eventually blows gasket, since it is not a MLS gasket, but a good one lasts 10+ years.

I would inspect cylinder block: measure bores in upper end, look for sleeve separation, measure straightness. Also the cylinder head need to be machined. It develops depressions between fire chamber and coolant passages, which weakens the gasket a lot.

Anyways, there's a list of must-do things that needs to be done when cylinder head comes off. If you did a sloppy job it will bounce back.

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Post by dikidera »

It was machined, by 0,14mm. The block had 0,06 yo 0,07mm of warpage on cylinder 1,2 on the exhaust side, diagonally the most. Sleeves were not measured. The new headgasket was Elring but not MLS. Yeah the block was not super straight, but I did not have the tools such as en engine hoist to get it out and have it machined so I just went with the head.

The head was torqued with new head bolts, however in the last step instead of 130 degrees, we decided to torque it to 150. In the end if she decided to blow again I likely would get a different engine rather than this one.

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Post by vtl »

dikidera wrote: 10 Jan 2024, 06:57 It was machined, by 0,14mm. The block had 0,06 yo 0,07mm of warpage on cylinder 1,2 on the exhaust side, diagonally the most. Sleeves were not measured. The new headgasket was Elring but not MLS. Yeah the block was not super straight, but I did not have the tools such as en engine hoist to get it out and have it machined so I just went with the head.

The head was torqued with new head bolts, however in the last step instead of 130 degrees, we decided to torque it to 150. In the end if she decided to blow again I likely would get a different engine rather than this one.
Did you coat the new bolts with oil or (better) fastener assembly lubricant?

SOURDOUGHJIM
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Post by SOURDOUGHJIM »

weitau wrote: 03 Jan 2024, 21:43 Yes, I agree it has to be under ideal conditions. The best I could get before was 32 MPG going south on I95 in the Carolinas a year earlier. I don't remember, but I probably was using mid-grade 89 octane and kept it at 60mph (not realistic agreed). I don't have a turbo, FWD, and I'm on skinny, stock tires 215/55R-16.

In city driving, my wife gets 19.3 mpg avg, but I can get over 20. A lot has to do with your driving habits such as frequent short trips vs highway, etc. Once I get my thermostat fixed, my city driving should improve.
PXL_20221204_025029874.jpgPXL_20221204_032334420.jpg
Yesterday's drive from SE Missouri to So. Indiana I got 31.6 mpg. I do very little city driving so my low is 27-28 mpg combined city and highway.
I added about a quart of -35 washer fluid in prep for next week's chill.

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Post by jonesg »

Bought flex pipe for exh downpipe.
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