What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[jonesg]

flex pipe finally broke away so its time to pull the downpipe and fix it.
pulled the car onto ramps, thats it , now I need a nap.
Its gonna be 41F in a few days so I'm taking my time.

[jonesg]

making progress, got the dreaded 02 sensor plug with the red tab disconnected under the brake fluid reservoir.
the other O2 upper sensor plug i'm not gonna mess around with, i'll cut the wire and just resolder when done.

[scot850]

Well there is an afternoon I won't get back. Man there is a Volvo designer I would like to squeeze their nuts for stupidity!

Who the heck designs a car where you have to pull the front bumper to replace a bulb, or design the bulb holders so that only one almost totally inaccessible one rotates CW to remove it guaranteeing you break the tab and have to pull the bumper to remove the headlight to replace the bulb.

Todays stupidity was an intermittent brake light bulb waring light that never came on when I tested it. Today, the lamp went out so I could at least narrow down the bulb at fault. So here is the stupidity. To remove the bulb, you have to remove half of the rear old plastic panels in the tailgate area to be able to access the brake bulb and the turn signal bulb! Those who have been there may wince now!!

To remove the bulb, you have to:

1) Remove the interior light and remove it in the top panel.
2) Remove the T25 Torx screw under the interior light unit and then remove top panel hoping not to break it, At least the 7 clips are metal ones!
3) Remove all the crap out of the rear of your car and lift the rear panel over the spare wheel, disconnect the 2 straps and push it until it locks upright.
3) Remove the rear panel between the corner panel and side panel. Pull out from the top, rotate it outward and remove it.
4) Remove the 8mm headed bolt countersunk under the recess for the load cover. Then pull hard on it to move it out far enough to get the plastic retaining pin out the corner panel.
5) Remove the T25 Torx screw from the top side panel by the window in the recess at the back. Then pull down from the back and slide it toward the back of the car and remove it.
6) Remove the speaker cover which clips at the bottom and rotates upward to remove.
7) Now try to remove the corner panel without cracking it. It is held in by 2 plastic 'C' clips at the side window side, and 4 of those stupid U shaped plastic clips that are near 100% likely to break (3/4 did). Fortunately I have a bag of spares!
Be aware, this side panel is held in place by the metal spring loaded strap clip at the bottom and a plastic tip that connects into the panel along the tailgate recess at the bottom.

Now that is out, you can now access the buried light bulb holders. Bulb was ok, so swapped the holder with a spare and still nothing??

Then remembered about 3-4 years ago an issue with one of the rear lights so looked at the bulb holder and found it was melted. So had to pull the whole upper light housing out to investigate. There are 2 buried 10mm headed nuts, and you have to lift the rear of the roof strip where the roof rails sit as there is a plastic hoop tab that holds the top of the housing in place.

Fought the housing to get it to come out, and had a close look at it. There was a hole burned through the aluminum area causing a dimple where the bulb retainer should ground. So it has been arcing and melted it to the point it no longer worked. Good job I pulled the rear light clusters at the junkyard last week along with all the bulb holders!

Swapped the upper units over, new bulbs for the turn signal and stop lamp and reassembly was the reverse. Had a slight panic when the interior light by the tailgate did not come on when re-installed and the bulb tested good.

Closed the tailgate and re-opened and all was good!

Close to 2 hours to change a bulb! What a stupid, stupid design!!

Neil.

[abscate]

Missing my Volvos on a long business trip , but spotted one…..

[volvolugnut]

Kick that bug over so it can crawl away.
volvolugnutr

[jonesg]

got the new flex pipe welded in place today.
built a jig first.



welded one side, removed the jig and did the back side.

[dikidera]

As I already explained in my thread, I believe I have a serious electrical issue leading to odd behaviour of the engine and the misfire(no injector pulse) on cyl 5. I had fuses start blowing, the MAF doesn't change engine operation when disconnected... and I measured a sort of direct short between 12v and gnd but only when ECM is powered on(battery hooked up).

Today I have to trace the whole engine bay electrical installation to find out what is shorting...and it appears to be in a bad shape overall.

[abscate]

How are measuring a short from 12 V bus to ground, exactly ?

[dikidera]

On the fuse box is a big fact red cable. When I connect the battery, there is a short , between the red cable and the engine valve cover e.g gnd. I have then measured 800 mA of current being drawn when I connect the battery and wait for a minute.

Suspiciously, when I disconnect the battery the short goes away. It is something whose resistance changes as soon as 12v is applied to it. 800mA and 12v means a resistance between 15.3-16 ohms. That's enough of a short for me. I pulled all the relays and fuses one by one(including for ECM and Starter solenoid) the consumption did not let go.

Addendum: I could be wrong...I disconnected the red cable from the fuse box but the consumption at battery did not drop below 780mA. So maybe I am wrong here...but I cannot else explain why I have no injector pulses at cyl 5 and why my fuses blew.

Addendum
After disconnecting everything and moving around the electrical installation, the car has started working. The P1176/P1177 codes related to camshaft timing disappeared so far and RPMs stabilized, however I think the VVT is dead(the solenoid). I keep getting P0075 code

But I will still do another experiment. I will try starting the car again once it has cooled down, so that it enters in CatWarmup mode. This is the mode in the first 30-60 seconds where the ignition is retarded. If when I start up the car it is shaking/misfiring or something whilst the ignition timing is retarded I will know something is up with the actual mechanical timing.

[jonesg]

But I will still do another experiment. I will try starting the car again once it has cooled down, so that it enters in CatWarmup mode. This is the mode in the first 30-60 seconds where the ignition is retarded. If when I start up the car it is shaking/misfiring or something whilst the ignition timing is retarded I will know something is up with the actual mechanical timing.

it will shake if its missing a cyl so that test won't reveal anything you don't already know.
I think you need to trace the injector circuit back from the injector.